Depending on it's orientation with relation to the E-manage it is either redundant (capping a capped signal), or hiding boost from E-manage(hence making the E-manage redundant).

The simple fact that your tuner doesn't understand this means he's not up to the job.

 

Car is sitting right now waiting on 1:1 FPR. Can't drive it without it throwing CEL for running rich.

All help is appreciated.

 

[QUOTE=doorman,Nov 5 2004, 04:56 PM] Car is sitting right now waiting on 1:1 FPR.

 

Oh...one more note...your stock regulator is a 1:1 so no need to buy anything...just take the FPR and ESM off and program the e-manage properly then fix the part throttle.

cheers

W

 

I have a question for you? Why would you change the RRFPR and ESM for the 440cc and e-manage? If the car was running fine there is no need at all for go to a piggyback and larger injectors? The stock injector spray pattern is much better than the 440cc and increasing the pressure is a flawless system because you only get the fuel when you need it, so driving around town or cruising the car will run like it always did in stock form.

I think you're complicating this whole thing for possibly minimal gain. The RRFPR is a very good system and I prefer it to the larger injectors/management solution.

You should put the car back the way it was in my opinion because the system works very well. Comptech did a great job with this system and I wouldn't consider larger injectors and management to be an upgrade. If anything you just bought yourself a big headache.

I am not sure there is any more real power to be had by changing out the fuel setup from Comptech to the injectors and e-manage.

cheers

W

 

The main reason I did the switch is because I was running lean. My A/F ratios were in the high 13s. The other reason was to smooth out the A/F line. It was all over the place. It still is not great but at least safe (rich). I was told that neither of these could happen without at least some kind of engine management. This is kind of foreign to me so I'm learning. I'm used to dealing with SC's on V8's. A lot less complicated.

Thank you for your help.

 

You had asked about the GReddy Pressure Sensor. While I agree with the common perception that the stock MAP sensor is plenty able, I would still entrust the boost map (Additional Injector Map as it's called by the e-manage the support tool) to use the GReddy Pressure Sensor instead for several reasons. The best reason is because I don't trust the stock unit. It has no inline filter and you can't add one because of the way it's screwed in to the top of the intake manifold. The stock unit is prone to problems. With forced induction, blow-by increased and the chances of getting the stock sensor dirty also increase. With the GReddy Pressure Sensor, you can put a small inline filter in the 4 mm hose feeding the vacuum signal. This should protect the sensor and keep the readings accurate. Also it seperates your boost map input signal for the e-manage from the stock MAP sensor for the stock ECU, there is a safety/comfort you gain from doing so, that even if while driving the stock MAP sensor fouls out from dirt and blow-by, the GReddy Pressure Sensor will make sure you still get the fuel you need based on boost it's reading independantly of the stock MAP sensor.

cheers

W

 

That's what I thought. I'm definetly considering buying one.

I didn't keep my stock FPR so I bought AusS2000's SARD FPR. He has been very helpful in this whole process. As soon as it get's here, I'm back to the dyno.

I'd like to thank everyone that has contributed to this thread and all info is appreciated.

 

get rid of your fmu the car will run alot smoother but u will have to re tune your car.

 

Ok, So went back to the tuner yesterday. Installed the SARD 1:1 FPR. Still having issues. If the car gets tuned for street driving it leans out at high rpm's. It had almost a perfectly straight line at 12.7 until 8.5k and then when up to high 13's at redline. When you correct the high rpm range it is way too rich and bogging at low rpm.

Now I have a wierd drop in power after 8.5K. Tried resetting the ECU, Checked and regapped the plugs, and the odd part is the fuel stays steady at 12.0. Any suggestions?

Also, turns out that I never had a ESM installed but rather they used what is called a Missing Link. This sits between the Intake and the map sensor with a tube that extracts boost pressure.

Car isn't really driving better after 6 HOURS of tuning. And on the way to work it thru another CEL for what I assume is reading to rich again.

Fortunetly, my tuner did not charge me for the time yesterday.


So options:
1. Continue tuning as is. I have begun to feel sorry for my car.
2. Switch back to the stock injectors with the SARD and E-manage and see what happens.
3. Go back to the stock Comptech set up. I was running in the mid 13's to low 14's throughout the rpm range until about 8.5 when it would go down to mid 12's. Was told this was not safe enough but I never had any issues.

The other main question: Is it expecting too much for the car to run as good with the e-manage and stock ecu as it did with the stock ecu alone?

Thanks in advance