S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

UOA Results-What to do

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Old Sep 2, 2015 | 08:35 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by AE_Racer
Consumption: im betting it went down after switching from mobil 1? My f20c burnt mobil 1 like crazy
Not mentioning the exact model of Oil used is like saying all Hondas spin their front tires in the snow... Make and Model, bro.
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Old Sep 2, 2015 | 08:52 AM
  #12  
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It is a Honda filter, but I had the same thought, maybe it is defective. At this point I think I may just rechange the oil and filter and go with a 5w40 Amsoil
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Old Sep 3, 2015 | 03:30 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by shind3
Originally Posted by AE_Racer' timestamp='1441204702' post='23734456
Consumption: im betting it went down after switching from mobil 1? My f20c burnt mobil 1 like crazy
Not mentioning the exact model of Oil used is like saying all Hondas spin their front tires in the snow... Make and Model, bro.

I used conventional and synthetic, different weights as well. Last I used it was a few years ago so I cant remember specifics. You're welcome to search here and you'll find more threads on it.
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Old Sep 3, 2015 | 09:11 AM
  #14  
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It's (what's a good word for it?) frightening to see that even the Amsoil 10W-30 (ATM, right?) shears down into 20 weight range so quickly.
Does the track have a lot of long high speed righthanders?
What sort ot tires? (semi-slick like Yokohama A048?)
There is no additive that cures an engine that has been through some borderline oil starvation situations, unfortunately.
The oil pressure is still high enough to keep the oil warning light off but I would try to get an oil pressure reading and take it from there.
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Old Sep 3, 2015 | 11:14 AM
  #15  
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Yes this track has two sections with well over 1g for like 5 seconds sustained. Back to back too, a long right, followed by a long left, then a very sharp downhill right under braking with an uphill exit onto the longest straight. Typically I would blow smoke on the straight once my catch can was full. I am sure this track has put an end to many engines.

Is there a quick and easy way to check pressure without putting a permenent gauge on?
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Old Sep 3, 2015 | 01:07 PM
  #16  
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Ok I cut open the oil filter, which since I had to use a hack saw turned out pointless as it was full of metal from cutting. Although, I did find red paint flakes from a chip that must have came off of my valve cover when I did a valve adjust!

I took it for a drive and it felt fine, oil pressure light again flickered on cold start. I got home and popped the hood to listen and found the oil pressure sensor was unplugged! To my surprise the oil pressure light was not on, which I figure would have been the case. I didn't have time to drive it again and need to let it cool to cold start it and see if the light flickers still, but maybe the plug was loose and caused this issue. Or it is purely coincidence and I knocked it loose before my drive as I was messing with the oil filter to check for leaks. In any case I would have figured it would have caused a light and killed vtec?
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Old Sep 3, 2015 | 10:36 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by bgoetz
Ok I cut open the oil filter, which since I had to use a hack saw turned out pointless as it was full of metal from cutting. Although, I did find red paint flakes from a chip that must have came off of my valve cover when I did a valve adjust!

I took it for a drive and it felt fine, oil pressure light again flickered on cold start. I got home and popped the hood to listen and found the oil pressure sensor was unplugged! To my surprise the oil pressure light was not on, which I figure would have been the case. I didn't have time to drive it again and need to let it cool to cold start it and see if the light flickers still, but maybe the plug was loose and caused this issue. Or it is purely coincidence and I knocked it loose before my drive as I was messing with the oil filter to check for leaks. In any case I would have figured it would have caused a light and killed vtec?
Interesting. I unplugged mine when doing the last oil change. Plugged it back in and have since noticed a slight flickering of the light on cold start
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 03:06 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by arsenal
Originally Posted by bgoetz' timestamp='1441314450' post='23736329
Ok I cut open the oil filter, which since I had to use a hack saw turned out pointless as it was full of metal from cutting. Although, I did find red paint flakes from a chip that must have came off of my valve cover when I did a valve adjust!

I took it for a drive and it felt fine, oil pressure light again flickered on cold start. I got home and popped the hood to listen and found the oil pressure sensor was unplugged! To my surprise the oil pressure light was not on, which I figure would have been the case. I didn't have time to drive it again and need to let it cool to cold start it and see if the light flickers still, but maybe the plug was loose and caused this issue. Or it is purely coincidence and I knocked it loose before my drive as I was messing with the oil filter to check for leaks. In any case I would have figured it would have caused a light and killed vtec?
Interesting. I unplugged mine when doing the last oil change. Plugged it back in and have since noticed a slight flickering of the light on cold start
Check to be sure it is securely plugged in. I started my car this a.m. and it did not flicker, so I am 99% sure that was the issue. That light should not flicker like that.

Obviously, that sensor does not control vtec or at least its failure to function does not prevent it. Also it's failure to function does not cause any light, all of which are surprising. The only difference I notice with it plugged in was that the first start right after plugging it in yesterday was harder than normal.
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 03:17 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by bgoetz
Originally Posted by arsenal' timestamp='1441348587' post='23736697
[quote name='bgoetz' timestamp='1441314450' post='23736329']
Ok I cut open the oil filter, which since I had to use a hack saw turned out pointless as it was full of metal from cutting. Although, I did find red paint flakes from a chip that must have came off of my valve cover when I did a valve adjust!

I took it for a drive and it felt fine, oil pressure light again flickered on cold start. I got home and popped the hood to listen and found the oil pressure sensor was unplugged! To my surprise the oil pressure light was not on, which I figure would have been the case. I didn't have time to drive it again and need to let it cool to cold start it and see if the light flickers still, but maybe the plug was loose and caused this issue. Or it is purely coincidence and I knocked it loose before my drive as I was messing with the oil filter to check for leaks. In any case I would have figured it would have caused a light and killed vtec?
Interesting. I unplugged mine when doing the last oil change. Plugged it back in and have since noticed a slight flickering of the light on cold start
Check to be sure it is securely plugged in. I started my car this a.m. and it did not flicker, so I am 99% sure that was the issue. That light should not flicker like that.

Obviously, that sensor does not control vtec or at least its failure to function does not prevent it. Also it's failure to function does not cause any light, all of which are surprising. The only difference I notice with it plugged in was that the first start right after plugging it in yesterday was harder than normal.
[/quote]


That sensor is just for the dummy light. There is a seperate oil pressure sensor on the VTEC solenoid which is pertinent to its operation. It is like the coolant temp sensor and sender, one is simply for the gauge while the other reports to the ECU.
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 04:54 AM
  #20  
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I am going to say that that sensor is only for the dummy light within the first second at start up. It only effected the function of that light on cold starts and in the first second. It was like once pressure built elsewhere in the engine, there is another sensor that controlled the operation of the vehicle and that light.

I am actually not even really sure of the purpose of that sensor, maybe someone else like Jordan or Billman can shed some light on this?
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