UOA Results-What to do
Joined: Jul 2009
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I am going to say that that sensor is only for the dummy light within the first second at start up. It only effected the function of that light on cold starts and in the first second. It was like once pressure built elsewhere in the engine, there is another sensor that controlled the operation of the vehicle and that light.
I am actually not even really sure of the purpose of that sensor, maybe someone else like Jordan or Billman can shed some light on this?
I am actually not even really sure of the purpose of that sensor, maybe someone else like Jordan or Billman can shed some light on this?
I removed mine completely and put an aftermarket sensor in that location.
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,643
Likes: 7
From: Florida
Originally Posted by bgoetz' timestamp='1441371266' post='23736884
I am going to say that that sensor is only for the dummy light within the first second at start up. It only effected the function of that light on cold starts and in the first second. It was like once pressure built elsewhere in the engine, there is another sensor that controlled the operation of the vehicle and that light.
I am actually not even really sure of the purpose of that sensor, maybe someone else like Jordan or Billman can shed some light on this?
I am actually not even really sure of the purpose of that sensor, maybe someone else like Jordan or Billman can shed some light on this?
I removed mine completely and put an aftermarket sensor in that location.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,730
Likes: 56
Ok, so it being unplugged must have caused a momentary check/recheck of the system upon startup causing that flicker, after that operation as normal.
Why the hard start right after I plugged it in though? This leads me to think that something else was happening, it was noticable.
Plus it was on cold starts only. I am thinking that the assumption is that the lack of this sensor function defaults to light off, when in reality there is a redundancy for that light
Why the hard start right after I plugged it in though? This leads me to think that something else was happening, it was noticable.
Plus it was on cold starts only. I am thinking that the assumption is that the lack of this sensor function defaults to light off, when in reality there is a redundancy for that light
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 29,899
Likes: 5,437
From: Ontario Canada
Originally Posted by bgoetz' timestamp='1441371266' post='23736884
I am going to say that that sensor is only for the dummy light within the first second at start up. It only effected the function of that light on cold starts and in the first second. It was like once pressure built elsewhere in the engine, there is another sensor that controlled the operation of the vehicle and that light.
I am actually not even really sure of the purpose of that sensor, maybe someone else like Jordan or Billman can shed some light on this?
I am actually not even really sure of the purpose of that sensor, maybe someone else like Jordan or Billman can shed some light on this?
I removed mine completely and put an aftermarket sensor in that location.
The sensor switch has no effect on engine operation, I'd say it was a coincidence that the engine had a hard start after messing with it.
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,953
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From: 17 ft below sea level.
The dummy oil switch is a NC (normally closed) switch, it opens when the oil pressure is high enough (the service manual does not spec a pressure)
When the switch is closed (not enough oil pressure) the loop battery-oil_light-oil_switch-ground is closed = oil light = ON.
When the switch is open (or disconnected!) the loop is open = oil light = OFF
As mentioned by others: the oil switch & oil light are not connected to the ECU.
Also, IF the oil light was on at any time the loop was closed.
Maybe the loose connector was not loose enough to actually disconnect the contacts?
The VTEC switch is also a switch (didn't check if it's NO or NC)
It connects directly to the ECU to show the needed VTEC oil pressure is ok.
The ECU decides to power the VTEC solenoid, depending on engine temp, revs, throttle position etc.
Btw: the Amsoil 10W-30 was ATM?
There are more Amsoil 10W-30's.
For ATM to shear down into 20 weight range in 3k miles is not very good.
Who knows what the viscosity was above 100C, at the track without oil cooler oil will go above 100C for sure.
For piece of mind I would test the actual oil pressure.
You can use the oil dummy switch position for a gauge.
When the switch is closed (not enough oil pressure) the loop battery-oil_light-oil_switch-ground is closed = oil light = ON.
When the switch is open (or disconnected!) the loop is open = oil light = OFF
As mentioned by others: the oil switch & oil light are not connected to the ECU.
Also, IF the oil light was on at any time the loop was closed.
Maybe the loose connector was not loose enough to actually disconnect the contacts?
The VTEC switch is also a switch (didn't check if it's NO or NC)
It connects directly to the ECU to show the needed VTEC oil pressure is ok.
The ECU decides to power the VTEC solenoid, depending on engine temp, revs, throttle position etc.
Btw: the Amsoil 10W-30 was ATM?
There are more Amsoil 10W-30's.
For ATM to shear down into 20 weight range in 3k miles is not very good.
Who knows what the viscosity was above 100C, at the track without oil cooler oil will go above 100C for sure.
For piece of mind I would test the actual oil pressure.
You can use the oil dummy switch position for a gauge.
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