If you are not the sole owner of the car I would do retainers and of course do a valve lash check.

One thing that wasn't mentioned was adding mud flaps.
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/679...t__p__15597776

Protect the paint!

 

Not trying to be smart, but can you explain your reasoning? OJB have absolutely nothing to do with oil consumption. The only difference between the two is the newer design allows MORE oil to flow through the squirter, spraying more oil on the connecting rod cap and bottom of the piston. The old design was insufficient and didn't spray enough oil causing the big end to get hotter than it should causing excessive bearing and other wear.

 

Everything I have read is it is both a lubrication and cooling issue with the 2 hole bolts. Increased heat and poor lubrication on moving parts would cause what oil there is on said part to burn easier as well as cause serious damage to said parts if unresolved. So thats my logic. More heat, not enough lubrication means more friction which leads to burned oil, scored cylinders etc. The oil burning is really the least of the worries and I should have said it is one of the reasons they burn more oil.

 

Has nothing to do with oil consumption; the cylinders in F20 blocks are out of round due to not using a deck plate to bore. Improper treatment during the break-in period is also a large contributor..

 

Your misunderstanding is that the upgraded retainers will make a difference in those situations, they won't. They only make a difference if you miss shift, AP1 will crack and eventually fail, AP2 won't. You will know it if you miss shift, you simply replace them then, potentially while you fix the valves you might bend. The thing with the AP2 retainers is that they don't prevent bending valves, which happens many times during a miss shift. So you may potentially do the swap to then miss shift (the reason you did the swap in the first place), to only have to still pull everything apart. It makes zero sense to replace retainers that are not suspect, in fact I have read many stories of guys dropping keepers into the engine and having a hell of a time getting them back.

With regards to the Banjo bolts, people remove these on other cars when they do stroker builds, hell I bet there are some that even remove them on the S2k. The failure mode of banjo bolt related failure would likely be scoring of the cylinder walls and failure from there, you don't read about this too often. What you do read about is guys messing up there engines when doing the procedure by stripping the block or messing up a squirter and then ruining the engine. I am not saying there is an increased risk, but a simple oil sample can help you get an idea of how your engine is wearing. If your seeing high wear metals associated with hard tracking then maybe consider it.

You have made it 84k "as is" with no issues, why go messing with it now, the dude who built your engine did just fine!

If you still are not convinced and feel the need at least do the retainers first, so if you drop a keeper you can dig it out of the pan when you do the banjo bolts.

 

Maybe, just use the Amsoil. Keep the level correct. Change it and other lubes on regular basis. Do routine engine maintenance. It should last another 80K.

Honda built these engines well.

 

Thanks for your input, everyone. I think I'm leaning toward the banjo bolt upgrade, and I'll hold off the retainer change until my next valve adjustment time and look at the condition of my retainers. I had a valve adjustment done at around 76K miles and found at least one tight one. I didn't feel like waiting until 110K miles. With the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, oil changes are just too easy. It takes a few minutes to undo the filter lock, take off the lever clip lock and flip a lever.

I bought the car used, with 45K miles on it just about 5 years ago. About a year after I bought it, we found some Bondo inside the front bumper, so I had that replaced. There's been other body work on it in that time period, so I'm sticking with this car through thick and thin. I just want to do everything possible to keep this car for as long as possible. It is so much fun to drive. And to think I almost got a Miata.

 

Proper inspection of the retainers is key, as many people cannot see the damage. They post pictures asking, even then its hard to tell if you are not familiar.

As stated, the Ap1 retainer can go a lifetime at 9k, not much more. I have 140k on original ap1 retainers.

 

I would think that if the OP has had it nearly 45k miles and 5yrs if the previous owner would have cracked them he would have known by now though right? That just leaves him and if he hasn't miss shifted....

 

I'm at 330,000 miles with original retainers on an '03 and have never had problems. Like other have said if you don't mis-shift you won't have a problem. But when you sell your car sometime later the buyer would be happier knowing you have AP2 retainers.

I'm the only one I know with a bypass filter and prelube pump. If you're not planning on driving 400k+ miles I have to agree it's probably overkill. Installation is complicated for the average Joe. Personally, I'm glad I did it because I'm planning on making it to 500k and I do a lot fewer oil changes. And it's a great topic of conversation at parties with other car buffs.