I would love to drive my S for 300, 400, or even 500,000 miles or more. I don't plan to mis-shift - I don't think anyone does. I rarely get to redline, yet I have a few times since owning it. The price for the parts was not out of line, so I'll hang on to them just in case I might need them. I think

The dual bypass oil filter system with a pre-lube pump doesn't sound like overkill to me if I want my engine to be healthy and strong at 500K miles. The kit from Amsoil looks straightforward. Other than costs of parts and time to install it, I can't think of any drawbacks to slalom44's set up.

Another product that caught my attention are the Eibach adjustable anti-sway bars. Does anyone run those? How do they accept handling and ride quality?

 

Pre-lube as in it cycles oil through the galleries before you start the car?

 

Yes. It pumps oil from your drain plug port through your oil filter, pressurizing the oil in the galleries before you press the start button.

 

Ordered my pre-lube pump.

 

How well do the small passages get oil, when the oil is ambient cold? Like on a cold morning.


Thanks!

 

You actually get more oil pressure when the car is cold, and really it shouldn't take more than a few seconds to build enough pressure to essentially eliminate start up wear. Once the car is hot, there's not as much wear on startup.

 

Honda is a VERY conservative company. The weak link on a Honda motor is still better than most other manufacturers. The f20c is a extremely reliable motor all things considered. There are many high mileage examples where these "issues" have never been touched.

Bottom line: you are over thinking it.

Valve retainers: If you spend lots of time at redline (track days). I would pull the valve cover to inspect the retainers and adjust the valves maybe once a year or after a possible money shift. If there are no issues, I would not touch them.

Banjo bolts: these are used to help keep combustion temps under control. The work very well. The four bolts are better but not necessary unless going to extreme cylinder pressures or temp, ie FI. Keep the coolant and oil in great shape, don't push the engine above three bars on the temp gauge. You will be fine.

Pre oiler: good idea but again not necessary. Keep good oil in it and have a oil analysis done at every change. If no issues on the report o would not worry about any of these issues.

Good luck.

 

Maintaining high revs has nothing to do with retainer failure.

 

not as well as when the engine is cold for sure. But with a prelube pump, all the galleries, are full of oil and oil is already flowing through the bearings and squirting on the cylinder walls. I use 0W-30 oil to improve flow on cold starts. According to my oil pressure gauge I get around 30 psi from my prelube pump before I start the car.

The reason I installed the prelube pump was because the Amsoil Bypass filter I installed has a biasing valve that could potentially increase the length of the dry starts at startup.

 

Broken retainers can go 30k or more undetected. Even when the roller rocker is grinding away the retainer and etching the cam there are no symptoms, not even noise.