Oil is still oil. : Synthetics may be better but conventional oils all meet the lubrication requirements of the engine. Conventionals may require more frequent changes but that doesn't change their lubrication qualities.

-- Chuck

 

Not all oils of any kind meet all lubrication requirements for this engine... Additionally, oil should be selected based on your usage.

 

Hopefully readers are smart enough to realize that uses like racing fall outside the normal realm.

For the rest of us just use the engine oil spec, it's not that hard. It's in everyone's owner's manual. Within the spec there are probably scores of choices including the color of the oil. Full synthetics can go longer intervals between oil and filter changes but they have to be changed sometime. Pull an oil sample midway thru the drain process and sent it to Blackstone. This will help determine the optimum oil change interval for your engine.

The Blackstone labs report this month shows any differences in API certified engine oil formulations have no statistical significant differences in engine wear characteristics. If you're not doing an engine oil analysis, though, you don't know. Very high aluminum wear in a Mustang engine was detected and solved just before the engine failed.

As for spec I'll be a challenge to find any engine oil that doesn't meet the API SN spec for gasoline engines. Canola oil won't meet that spec. The oil grade specified by the Honda engineers runs from 10W-30 to 5W-40 which means literally any multi-grade oil in the 0W-40 range is fine. All my cars use "30 weight" so I've standardized 5W-30.

And there's evidence here that some engine oils burn or leak more easily out of some of our engines. There's enough anecdotal evidence Mobile-1 in the AP1 engine is likely to do this.

Off to the auto parts store this afternoon for more 5W-30 Royal Purple! Love the color.

-- Chuck

 

I am certainly guilty of this - but I suspect the reality is that comparing oils may be like comparing how many angels are dancing on the heads of different pins.

https://gallery.mailchimp.com/f64139...Aug_17_ENG.pdf

 

^
this is true for normal city driving.

i believe there is substantial difference if the car is driven hard, in hot temperatures, then the more expensive synthetics will show it's true colors.

the occassional redline around town not so much, but the constant redline and revving on a track...better pony up for the better oil.

 

Substantial? Not likely. How many miles are you going to put on, in even the hottest, most abusive track temperatures? I'm assuming most track guys will dump their oil after one track day regardless, and it's doubtful that you'll completely shear down and cook your oil in one day, regardless of synthetic or conventional! You're not putting 3000 miles in one track session.

 

i don't think mileage is much of a factor when you're tracking the car, moreso than the condition of your oil when it's reaching 250+ degrees F.

there is a lot more wear at consistent high rpm driving, and this is when the oil debates start to matter.

we know tracked car engines are more worn out than a city driven engine, so the goal is to minimize this extra wear. this is where the oil debates can be useful.

 

just tell us!!

 

Never!


Ok fine. Virtually none lol. I added about 1/4 quart (close to the same as what I emptied from the catch can). So it probably burned like...1/8 quart?

 

Here's some track day UOAs -- make up your own mind:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un.../#post23424886
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ra.../#post23490815
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un.../#post21917964