Its a 2001 with 37k miles on it. No warranties at all except the lemon law warranty here in NY. The car is not modded. I did not buy it at a Honda dealer.

I assume things go like this:

You buy car new and its under warranty, Honda will fix it.

You buy car new and its out of warranty but you bitch enough, Honda will fix it.

You buy car used from Honda and out of warranty but you bitch a whole lot, Honda will fix it.

You buy car from used car lot and out of warranty, Honda tells you to pack sand.

 

Ahhh, you left out that key word in your first description. In this case, then I would tend toward CV.

As for warranty, if you've seen some of the threads lately here, you will notice that Honda fixes very little in or out of warranty. Good luck in your "bitching".

 

yeah mine did the same thing, and then my diff blew

 

Just to finish my story...

The used car dealer had me take the car to Friendly Honda here in Poughkeepsie. The Honda dealer agreed that my car was affected by the 02-063 TSB. The quote they gave me was $1005 to fix it.

I had done some research and figured it would be about $650. Two hours labor and I found the inboard CV hubs for $227. Friendly Honda was charging me $280 for the hubs and 5 hours labor. When I asked about goodwill consideration the service guy said "They won't do that." Basically Friendly Honda was screwing me.

So I called Honda of America. I told them my story and they said a supervisor would review my situation and they would call me back. They called back today and said they would cover the parts and I should get the job done for two hours labor. So its going to cost about $200 which made me very happy.

I dont even have to pay the $200 since I have a warranty through the used car dealer. Since the used car dealer only has to pay $200 he's very happy and were still friends.

 

wow! glad to hear everything worked out very well

 

I have a 2001 S2000. I have a vibration in the rear end on my car. It has been there for a couple of months. It was more noticeable on acceleration at first, but now is present most of the time. The first shop that I took it to told me

 

back from the dead


dont waste your money on the driveshaft.......thats not the problem .the innner joint's mainly the driver side joint will end up with pits in the metal of the bucket( the part of the shaft that has the boot and is boltted directly to the diff). the pits are right were the bearings contact the bucket so as a result the joint ends up with a little play but not enough to be able to see when you grab ahold of the shaft and attempt to move it up and down......At speed the shaft will distort and result in an imbalance or vibration..

What i would do is get a set of T1R driveshaft spacers and have them installed, after installed the pitted part of the bucket will no longer be in contact with the bearings......end result is no more shaft distortion at speed....

i had the same problem with my car and pulled apart the inner joints and found a bunch of pits right were the bearing rides. replacement shaft buckets can get exspensive so i repacked it with fresh grease and installed the street version of the T1R spacers (10mm thick) and vibration was gone

 

Or if you are going that far you can save some money and leave off the T1R spacers, but swap the buckets from passenger side to driver side and vis versa. They are interchangeable, but when you switch them it will give a brand new surface for the bearing to ride on.

The pitting would still be there, but you would only notice vibration when accelerating hard in reverse.

 

not sure how he would save money if he is going to pay a shop to do it.... swaping buckets is labor intensive because you have to completly remove the shaft. I believe the book time on removing one shaft is 1 to 1.5 not to mention the extra time the shop will add to take apart the shaft. plus most shops are going to recomend an alignment because they had to take apart the suspension. The labor rate were i work is 74.00$ an hour. the spacers can be installed by him.

But for those of us with tools and experience a bucket swap would be a Freebie with the same end result.

 

Sorry...was looking at all you did when installing your spacers which was to remove the buckets and replace the grease before putting on the spacers. I'd just forgo the spacers if I was doing that much work.

But if he can install the spacers on his own it may still be a toss up. A set of T1R spacers are $175 + shipping...say $10 for shipping so $185.

Most shops have a 1hr minimum charge, so if he has to get the spacers installed even at $50/hr for a cheap shop, that's going to bring the total to $235.

Compare to paying to have the buckets swapped: Shop rate for our decent tuner spot is $90/hr, so about $180 for the swap is pretty likely...but assume an extra half hr for taking the buckets off and swapping. That brings the cost to $225.

So unless you can install the spacers, paying someone else to swap buckets is still the better deal.