S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

vortech problems

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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 04:39 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by joes sled 2000,Jan 15 2005, 05:49 PM
Well xviper,i remember making a dyno a pass with a customers car after the install.This particular car was a myo2.This was going back 2 years ago.The car was registering an af ratio of 14.1 at full throttle across the board,much too lean for any forced induction application.I called vortech and they told me to eliminate the blow off valve and ignition timing box from the fmu.So i tried this and the car then registered an af ratio of 12.3 across the board.This was perfect.I tied the bov and timing box into the only other vacuum source, the little nipple above the number 4 runner tied into the evap system.To this day that car is running strong with zero issues.I used the knowledge from this install for my very own s2k.Now this is where things get interesting!I set up my s2k exactly the way this car was set up,down to the vacuum hose routing.It just so happens i just got back from the dyno with my car,and i was VERY surprised to see that my af ratio was 14.2 after 4.5k all the way to redline!WAY to lean!!!!Now i can either deal with vortech again(there customer service stinks!)or i can go and purchase a calibration kit and fix it myself.Needless to say im very disappointed with vortech at this point.
If I understand your story correctly, in the first car, you were able to correct the lean condition by using a different vacuum source for the BOV and timing box (and doing nothing else). In the second car, you duplicated the same vacuum routing for all the components, yet the a/f was still lean. What is this "calibration kit" you are talking about?

And yes, I am also very dissappointed with Vortech for their crappy customer service. If I had to do it all over again, even at the higher cost, I would go with Comptech and their A/C kit. I've met those guys, and they are genuinely interested and concerned about customer service. I think Vortech is simply too big for their own britches. It's time to knock them down a few notches.
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 04:48 PM
  #12  
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From: Mother F'in TN
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Vortech's FMU is rebuildable to a different rising rate. you swap the internals out of the FMU to change the rate. The kit comes with a 10:1 FMU. for every psi of boost, you get a 10psi increase over static fuel pressure. You can only go up to a 12:1 rate.
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 04:49 PM
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From: Mother F'in TN
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Here's FMU info:

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/produc...l/fuel_fmu.html
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 04:55 PM
  #14  
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Slows2k,you took the words out of my mouth!Yes vortech does need to learn how to deal with customers in better manner.This problem is now my third issue with this kit!!!First the timing box(which possibly there was nothing wrong with!!!)and then i was missing an idler pulley and now this !!!!!They are going to hear me ROAR on monday!!!!Just think if i did not know better than to check my af ratio,it would not be to long before i blew the bloody engine!
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 05:02 PM
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I think most of the issues with the Timing controller are related to the piss-poor wiring instructions, as well as the displacement wire taps. (they suck very much)

My biggest gripe with the kit is the location of the belt tensioner lock-nut.

Mine ran lean, and I strongly suspect all of them do. It's way more common to hear of them running lean, versus rich.

Fuel tuning by cranking up the fuel pressure is marginal at best. when you have fuel pressue over 100psi, you can't expect the PCM to accurately control the fuel. The spray patterns at those pressures are awful as well.

With the Vortech FMU, the fuel pressure is 125psi at full boost.

That's my opinion on any FI application, no matter who's selling the kit. Comptech, Vortech, any Turbo with a FMU.

There are some that disagree with that, but they are usually using a combination of a E-manage and a much smaller rate FMU.
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 05:14 PM
  #16  
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Slows2k,what are you running?I am fairly confident that i can improve this setup.I think that an fmu is ok for low boost applications like this,but its a very crude method of controlling fuel flow.Im just glad i went to the dyno before i went and drove the car hard.
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 06:04 PM
  #17  
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I used to have a stock boost Vortech, 440cc RC engineering injectors, and a e-manage. No FMU was used.

I also retained and remapped the Vortech/split second timing controller because It was far more accurate than the Emanage timing control.

I also had a Toda header, test pipe and Mugen exhaust.
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Old Jan 20, 2005 | 05:46 AM
  #18  
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Did everyone here jsut slap on the supercharger? Because that's what i plan on doing ... stock S2000 + vortec sc ... i dont want more horsepower or anything ... so i shouldnt need to upgrade anything right? i havent done anything drastic to my stock clutch (dumping etc)

all this reading and i get confused.
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Old Jan 20, 2005 | 06:15 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by C45P312,Jan 20 2005, 07:46 AM
Did everyone here jsut slap on the supercharger?
No, not everyone. I think I'm one of the few who simply bolted the thing on and left it. It's been over 20 months without any problems (except a small oil leak that was my fault). I do check my plugs regularly for signs of a lean condition and I have a simple narrow band a/f gauge that tells me that things are OK at WOT in the upper rpm range under load. In the low rpm range, with little load and part throttle, I don't really care what it is exactly as long as it's not absurdly lean.
Over the months, however, I have installed a Toda header, another cat back exhaust and a test pipe, but I didn't do it for more power. I did it for the "hands on" of wrenching. My clutch is original on a year 2000 car - so far, so good (might put in a new clutch in the next couple of years). I have 4.44 gears in the diff. I may put on a wide band a/f over this winter, but again, only for curiosity and for the "hands-on" of installing it for fun.
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Old Jan 20, 2005 | 01:14 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Slows2k,Jan 15 2005, 09:02 PM
With the Vortech FMU, the fuel pressure is 125psi at full boost.
really? Is this a figure you got by actually looking at a gauge on your car?

i only register about 80psi.

then again i am running an electrical gauge which I think only goes up to 100psi.
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