tubbs titan

HI. I run a circle track car with an f20c1 engine. I want to keep it a 2.0 due to how much I have to weigh, (lbs per cc). The engine must be carburated due to circle track rules. Therefore I took out fuel injection and added 44mm mikuni carburators. I use a msd digital crankfire ignition timed to hondas specs. I run up to 9300 rpms into the corners. My question is what is the week spot on the engine. I relize you guys are not running continously above 7000 for 35-45 minutes but some of you push the limits of the engine. Are the valves going to break first or is going to be in the bottom end. I recently broke a valve and have to rebuild the engine. I don't want to put alluminum cylinder sleeves back in if steel sleeves are better. And I don't want to put stock valves back in. I bought this engine as a jdm swap with 35,000 miles on it so the damge to the valve could have been from who had it before me. This engine has ran 19 races this way and worked great. If anyone has tried to run a motor at these rpm ranges and broke, what was it? What do I need to make stronger on this Engine?

S2KenC

I would look into putting in the updated oil jet bolts (4 holes vs 2) for your car if you haven't done so already. This was a recall item for the 2000 - mid 2002 year model over in Europe but not in North America.

Do a search on the topic and you'll find out more info regarding this.

nuklearmaniac86

The oil jet bolts are one. Also the there has been some issues with the valve retainers mushrooming and cracking from high stress and RPM's greater than 9000 (i don't know how much greater).

21337R

^^ I agree, from what I have seen the valve retainers seem to be the weakest link. Since you are rebuilding it anyway, go with after market valves, springs, and retainers.

tubbs titan

I've seen what skunk 2 and toda have to offer are there any others that are out there or are these two the best?

ruexp67

I understand that there are rules involved in all types of racing. I am 100% behind the idea of racing using an F20C. I am even a big fan of unconventional motor swaps.

That said, the idea of a carburator on an F20C just makes my head hurt.

Keep the engine WELL lubed. With the G's you are pulling on a consistant basis, I would be worried about starving the engine for oil and spinning a bearing.

tubbs titan

I have a drysump system on the car with the scavange outlets on the right hand side. Oil pressure is set at 85lbs when the vtec soleniod in gages at 5500 rpms. At full 9300 rpms with oil temp up the oil pressure is right at 90-95lbs. I was told that these where the pressure numbers honda wanted. Please inform me if these are wrong. I will get some pics on here of the whole system. Give me a little time due to engine being torn down. The whole sytem is acctually pretty cool. The vtec is solenoid is actavated by an msd window switch. (a digital tach that has a normally open and normally closed relay built in, with adjustable switching points.)

you say the idea makes your head hurt. Figure this whole thing out made ours.

ruexp67

I couldn't tell you where the pressures should be, but I would like to see the dry sump system. Sounds pretty cool.

Carbon Blue

pics of the car??

tubbs titan

Dry sump system is a weavers brothers late model pump out of carson city Nevada. I built a bracket to hang it off the side of the engine. It also bolts in with the engine mounts. Then I cut about two inches off the bottom of the oil pan and tigg welded a 1/4 peice of alluminum to the bottom of the pan. Drilled holes in the right side of the pan and welded in two -12 alluminum jic fittings. After that it was running oil lines. The oil goes threw a heat transfer unit made buy aeroquip that allows water to pass threw the center and oil to travel around the outside. Then I had someone machinne me an adapter to eliminate the oil filter and plumb in a -10 oil line. There are two 1 quart oil filters in the system. It's a lot harder to explain then it was to do.