onions2k

Hi,

Just noticed that I am seeping oil from this hex bolt on the front of the motor.. Not alot, but enough for me to notice.. Does it need to get tightened? Or does it need to be replaced? What's the purpose of this hole?



Not the "maintenance one", but the other one that is on top of it (not circled).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

zeroptzero

that is the bolt for the idler pulley. Whatever you do don't try to remove the bolt or parts will fall into the timing chain case and areas below. I would try to snug it down and see if it stops, don't overdo it though. There is an o ring behind there that keeps the oil from leaking it may be seeping a bit. We've had at least one other post on this in past months.

onions2k

I'm sure it's on as tight as it can be, I'm thinking the seal is probably in need of a replacement. Does anyone have the diagram of this from the manual? Torque specs? I can't seem to find it.

Does this affect anything else besides losing a bit of oil? Like it's still okay for me to drive right? None the less, I'll have it torqued up tonight and see if it helps it.

EIDT: Found the post you reffered to: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry18265268

But still waiting for torque specs and O-ring part number/size and or whether it's safe to do it without dropping things into the engine.. If anyone has these and would help a brother out, would be thanked for greatly!

Also waiting on BILLMAN'S approval of diy through the bolt...

zeroptzero

torque spec is 36 ft lb, you could loosen the bolt enough to perhaps pull out the o-ring and reinstall a new one, just don't remove the bolt completely as there is a washer on the inside which could drop down if the bolt is pulled..

spets

Here's the Majestic diagram, found under CAMSHAFT-CAM CHAIN section:



Looks like it is #23, which costs $1.26.... + $8 for S&H

Billman250

Don't tighten that bolt it will do no good.

The o-ring sits in a groove on the bolt.

Loosen the bolt just enough to expose the o-ring, NO FURTHER.

change o-ring, oil the o-ring, torque to spec.

I have done this job in the car so I know it can be done without dropping parts.

If you wanna wait for pics i get you some.

Robert O

Good thread.Very informative.

onions2k

Thanks for such informative replies and posts. That diagram explains it all! Billman, your a legend. I'll wait for your pics as I will have to wait for the o-ring anyway, unless you could measure one up and I'll try to source one locally?

Thanks guys! I'll keep this thread updated with the fix with pix.

EDIT: 91301-PCX-003 O-RING (16.3X1.5) $1.26 - I'm assuming this is in mm? Would it be okay if I sourced an o-ring locally? Purely because of shipping wait time etc..

onions2k

Found a matching o-ring for $1.50 at a local rubber shop, stealership wanted $6.80 + 2 week backorder wait.. Shipping from majestic to Australia total price $25.00. My choice is obvious.

I will update with pics of my attempt of replacing the seal over the weekend as I need to get the hex driver socket off a mate.

Gotta love s2ki.com.

freq

The quality of the rubber used to manufacture that o-ring might be of some concern.....

Imagine the heat and heat-cycling that that o-ring will see. Quality might become an issue here or, buy a dozen and swap them at the first sign of seepage.