I tried to do a search on this but couldn't find anything so forgive me if it's already been talked to death (I'm sure thats said plenty on this board).

I'm trying to see what parts I need to increase the redline of my s2k. I'm thinking I'd like 11k-12k+ range is my target.

What problems may occur? Would I have to remove Vtec because of the lobes spinning too fast at such high rpm's? or replace the cams?

A list of parts that would be needed to effectively raise the redline would be appreciated as well. If my rpm range stated before is just nuts, what sort of range is possible and what parts would I want to get with that as well?

Thanks for the help always

 

Why do you want to raise your redline? for the heck of it? or do you actually have a reason for doing this? I'm gonna assume you want more power. there are more efficient ways also more cost effective ways of doing this. you defenetly need more then waht i list but heres a start. valve springs,cams, lightweight pistons and rods and a crank. do you want to keep stock discplacement? do you want to stay NA? I'm building my motor to a 2.5L stroker kit, but it will still redline at 9k.

 

I believe Ultimate Lurker has his hands in a project like this...that is where I would start.

 

Have you looked at a dyno graph for a stock F20C? The torque/power starts falling off pretty quickly past 8000 RPM, so I can't see what good it would do to run the engine up past 10K RPM... you won't be making any more power.

Now, if you can also solve the "mystery" behind why the power drops so quickly past 8000 RPM, then maybe it would be worthwhile to up the revs. I know part of the reason the power drops is because the stock ECU makes the fuel mixture really rich up there. It probably retards the timing some, too. But I think, ultimately, the head just won't flow well enough past 9 or 10 K to keep making power.

But, I have no scientific facts to back this up. If you have the budget, then you can be the pioneer to uncover the wonders of 5-figure revs.

 

Yea I realized the drop of the 8.5k rev.

My basic thought was increasing the redline at first, then establishing a turbo - I'm not that knowledgable with practical mechanics, but in my mind it seemed like the increased rev limit plus turbo would help the top end and fix the problem of the 8.5k drop.

I remember serveral folks have mentioned to have raised their RPM to 10k but I haven't seen much on what was done to it to increase the redline.

If its completely impractical I guess it wont be viable to try, but I would think if the turbo is running off exhaust, then higher RPM's and higher redline would warrent better use of the turbo.

I figured someone has done this by now. Guess I'll have to do some research....

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by SuperDyu

I'm trying to see what parts I need to increase the redline of my s2k. I'm thinking I'd like 11k-12k+ range is my target.


try swaping in an na 20b rotary ... that might get you the revs your lookin for...

 

Steps: Fully Built motor + Stand alone + UL tuning time


Bo mongu...just get a motorcycle.

 

If you set your car up to use a turbo above 9000 RPM, it's not going to be very enjoyable to drive. Any turbo that makes good boost that high is going to do zilch below 7000 RPM, so the car will be a slug to drive. Any turbo setup that makes good boost where the car really needs it (between 4 and 7K RPM) will probably run out of steam above 8 or 9K RPM.

Good idea. There is quite a bit of info on this board, and lots of good books out there too. Unfortunately, I can't recommend any off the top of my head.

 

i don't know what the valvetrain is rated to. i hear some say 9300, some say 10500, but I doubt they really know.

Honda set the redline at 9K, so I'm sure there is some margin so that the motor will still do that later in its life and stay reliable. Going into that safety margin is a BIG bargain. You'll at least need double springs, ti retainers, lighter valves, and probably hollow cams (with a bigger profile for the VTEC part). You'll also need an ECU mod.

Also, there's the bottom end. Again, there's a safety margin, but you'll need lighter forged pistons, rods, and crank. You'll basically need the pistons and rods to be completely identical and the crank perfectly balanced. this is big bucks work. The rewards can be a 350+HP NA motor, but it is expensive. I think a supercharger is the ideal way...much cheaper, even with the eventual engine rebuild.

 

Hmmm...

Valves, valve springs and retainers to prevent valve float and piston/valve interference.

Cams, re-tuned head and re-tuned intake manifold to support breathing at 11k rpm.

Con rods and pistons to reduce reciprocating mass.

Pistons again and cylinder sleeves to prevent piston slap at those speeds (dunno what that would be, exactly.)

New ECU for proper spark and fuel control.

(For what it's worth, the 8.5k drop in the F20C is almost entirely due to an extra-rich fuel map from the ECU. A VAFC or Mugen ECU can eliminate nearly all of that for much less money than a turbo or 11k rpm setup.)