When putting stock coilovers back on...
I've been running JIC coilovers for a couple years now, and I want to go back to stock. However when I attempted this today, I discovered that the rear coilovers are slightly too long to easily bolt back on to the lower a-arm. (I haven't attempted the fronts yet.) Is this simply a case of the stock spring sitting around uncompressed for so long? Or is this normal and I'll need to get a spring compressor to shorten things up enough?
I don't think you should need a spring compressor to get them back on if the spring and shock assembly is already put together. You may want to either take loose the upper control arm or just simply have a friend apply some downward pressure(stand) on the rear hub while you attach the shock.
Originally Posted by Elistan,Aug 13 2004, 02:00 PM
I've been running JIC coilovers for a couple years now, and I want to go back to stock. However when I attempted this today, I discovered that the rear coilovers are slightly too long to easily bolt back on to the lower a-arm. (I haven't attempted the fronts yet.) Is this simply a case of the stock spring sitting around uncompressed for so long? Or is this normal and I'll need to get a spring compressor to shorten things up enough?
you may need to disconnect the swaybar on both sides, or loosen the swaybar bushing mounts to release the load on the swaybar, that should drop the control arms enough to allow for an easy install
Originally Posted by Elistan,Aug 14 2004, 09:58 AM
Would disconnecting the swaybar be necesary even if I have both rear wheels off the ground at the same time?
If you jack up the right rear susp, the left rear will lower slightly if the sway bar is connected.
It would be best to just remove the sway bar links.
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Man, that's just the OPPOSITE of how I thought the sway bar worked... As in, if the left wheel raises up towards the chassis, the sway bar would cause the right to lift also, thereby reducing the amount of roll...
Hey Mark (Elistan),
Your description of a sway bar sounds right to me. When I swapped my springs, I had both rear shock assemblies out of the car and found it difficult to get back in too. I eventually disconnected the sway bar from both corners, and used a 36" steel bar (some 1" square bar stock from Home Depot) as a lever to pry down the lower A-arm. The bar conveniently fit into the A-arm and sort of pointed out the back at an angle. With a little pressure from my foot on the bar, I was able to make enough room to slide the shock back in place. Hope that helps.
Chris.
Your description of a sway bar sounds right to me. When I swapped my springs, I had both rear shock assemblies out of the car and found it difficult to get back in too. I eventually disconnected the sway bar from both corners, and used a 36" steel bar (some 1" square bar stock from Home Depot) as a lever to pry down the lower A-arm. The bar conveniently fit into the A-arm and sort of pointed out the back at an angle. With a little pressure from my foot on the bar, I was able to make enough room to slide the shock back in place. Hope that helps.
Chris.
As the inside wheel droops, it helps to prevent the outside wheel from moving upward, thus preventing body roll and vice versa, as the outside wheel moves upward, it helps to prevent the inside tire from drooping, thus helping the car to remain level.




but you should not need a comp.