So last weekend I installed F22C1 retainers/keepers on the intake side of my F20C. Since I had it all apart I did a valve adjustment. After a little mix up with my timing (I attempted to turn the motor over 3 times with each camshaft off a tooth (~6 degrees retarded?) the car started up once the timing was set correctly.

I let it run for a few minutes and it sounded fine. Today I started it up and it sounds like a spun a bearing however my oil level is at the H on both sides of the dip stick on a cold motor. Does this sound like out of spec valve lash or did I manage to really mess something up? I have never done a valve adjustment on an S2000 and I did feel I was adjusting them on the tight side of the spec.


http://youtu.be/UK6fRhWI_Mo

Some other tidbits:

2 weekends ago I did the oil jet bolts. After doing this I drove the car around for 2 days and it didn't have any issues. When I replaced the oil I used full syth Pennzoil platinum. Prior to that, when I first bought the car, I put in half sythn Valvoline. The owner before used regular motor oil.

I replaced the TCT about 5 months ago.

Gas light is on

New spark plugs when I did the retainers

eBay header makes the normal exhaust valve noise more pronouced


Possibilities?
bad valve adjustment
spun bearing
loose lifter

 

Are you sure you adjusted the valves correctly? When I did mine I used this walkthrough
Walkthrough

You don't actually have to jack the rear and rotate the tire you can just rotate the crank shaft. But I'm sure you knew that

 

I put it back together correctly I'm not sure if what I consider "drag" to be the same as what the shop manual says. I felt like everything I adjusted had drag. I think I adjusted everything to be too tight.

What I am looking for is that the sound in the video, is that valve sound or bearing sound?

 

Hard to say. Let the car cool off overnight and do a valve adjustment. Make sure one size up from the spec you are using will not fit and the one at spec will. Easiest way since drag is vague.

 

I tried that and with enough effort I could jam a .011inch into the intake and a .012 into the exhaust

maybe i shouldn't be so forceful?

 

I don't think you have a spun bearing, the noise would be much worse and more pronounced than that. I e think you messed up the valve adjustment and made things louder. I set mine on the tight end of the spec. because I plan on checking them every couple of years, I think you set yours too wide if you could fit those feeler guages in the gap. Do another adjustment and make sure it is done on a dead cold engine and go with the tighter end of the clearance specs.

I also find that aftermarket headers allow more exhaust valve noise to be heard , which is a tick type noise. Thin walled headers without heatshields will do that as compared to the oem header.

Lastly, you wouldn't be the first person to have a TCT go bad shortly after replacing a defective one, they are such poorly designed/built parts.

Good luck with getting things resolved.

 

Guess your next step is to drain the oil and look for metal particles. Much safer than running it over and over. You will see debate, but I find you actually need to pay attention to cam angle for the adjustment instead of just getting the lobe off the valve.

 

Thanks guys. I guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend

Any other input will be appreciated

 

im pretty sure its not a spun bearing. i would not run it anymore until you let it sit overnight and re-check valve adjustment

 

brand of plugs, torqued and gapped proper? everything put back together right?