My quest is still to locate a surface, facing a wall, that is flat at least 35' from the wall (25' from headlights plus length of the car's wheelbase).

 

I was thinking about that myself ... if you have a level spot to park the car .... try hanging or otherwise securing a sheet or some other "portable" wall surface at the distance you need from the vehicle ... if it's something you can wash, then putting marks on it while testing the light will not require significant cleaning/repainting.

This would, of course, entail a fun calculation to measure the drop point from the light level to the projection point, but it's just not a perfect world now is it?

 

You guys are awesome and I can't believe how detail-oriented you all are. I'm impressed and I think I have just the level spot to run the test (that sheet thing was funny and helpful too, Drac). If I keep hanging out with you guys, I'll be a female mechanic before long. Thanks gang.

Did I mention I finally did my top and just haven't gotten around to uploading the pictures yet? Ol' eagle-eyed Jim (S1997) will be too impressed and proud of me. Oh, and it looked so much better (like a new top) and I did it just like you guys (and Patty) told me. Thanks again. What would I ever do without all of y'all?

 

You are right. In fact I have used a similar method in the past that came from the shop manual for my old Fiat. You start by placing the "portable wall" right in front of the headlights, and then mark the center of each beam. Then back the car the requisite 25' and remark the centers. This makes measuring the drop a direct measurement right on the wall surface. Also, it permits you to see just how undulating most "flat" surfaces really are -- the lights may wander up and down as you back the car.

 

Sorry, I do stand corrected. Wrong car