$1100 US Dollars for Zymol WAX
01-06-2002, 11:38 PM
#11
Originally posted by Homer2
my understanding is that the "chain stores" zymol is not the same as the high priced stuff. I do not have first hand knowledge of this - but it is what I have been told, and it does make sense.
my understanding is that the "chain stores" zymol is not the same as the high priced stuff. I do not have first hand knowledge of this - but it is what I have been told, and it does make sense.
01-12-2002, 08:36 AM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Next door to the Bat-Cave
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Never fear, we will be testing the Atlantique, Destiny and Vintage waxes from Zymol, along with the Titanium, Concours and Carbon waxes when we publish round 2 of our tests.
From our previous tests, we found no difference between the Carbon, Concours and Titanium, which ranged in price from $35 to $180 for 8 oz. We expect simimlar results with the A, D & V.
Our calendar looks good - we'll be starting Round 2 as soon as the weather starts cooperating a little more, and we've learned from our mistakes. Round 2 should be a much better test, with more "scientific" results and conclusions. We've also included more body panels so that the test swatches are bigger and not so close to one another.
See you in Round 2!
-Steve
thewaxtest.com
From our previous tests, we found no difference between the Carbon, Concours and Titanium, which ranged in price from $35 to $180 for 8 oz. We expect simimlar results with the A, D & V.
Our calendar looks good - we'll be starting Round 2 as soon as the weather starts cooperating a little more, and we've learned from our mistakes. Round 2 should be a much better test, with more "scientific" results and conclusions. We've also included more body panels so that the test swatches are bigger and not so close to one another.
See you in Round 2!
-Steve
thewaxtest.com
01-12-2002, 09:11 AM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Raleigh
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am new to high end waxes and a fairly new owner. Someone please educate me on why Zymol is the best of the best?
I read one of the replies that after one or two rains it needs to be reapplied. I usually don't drive my S2000 when it is wet outside, however if it needs to be consistantly reapplied... is it really that good? I have not yet put a coat of wax on it since purchasing it in November. Does Zymol protect against color fading?
I definitely want to treat my S2000 right and would appreciate gaining more knowledge before I apply a new coat of wax.
Thanks.
I read one of the replies that after one or two rains it needs to be reapplied. I usually don't drive my S2000 when it is wet outside, however if it needs to be consistantly reapplied... is it really that good? I have not yet put a coat of wax on it since purchasing it in November. Does Zymol protect against color fading?
I definitely want to treat my S2000 right and would appreciate gaining more knowledge before I apply a new coat of wax.
Thanks.
01-12-2002, 09:24 AM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 4,594
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[QUOTE]Originally posted by waxtest.com
[B]Never fear, we will be testing the Atlantique, Destiny and Vintage waxes from Zymol, along with the Titanium, Concours and Carbon waxes when we publish round 2 of our tests.
From our previous tests, we found no difference between the Carbon, Concours and Titanium, which ranged in price from $35 to $180 for 8 oz.
[B]Never fear, we will be testing the Atlantique, Destiny and Vintage waxes from Zymol, along with the Titanium, Concours and Carbon waxes when we publish round 2 of our tests.
From our previous tests, we found no difference between the Carbon, Concours and Titanium, which ranged in price from $35 to $180 for 8 oz.
01-12-2002, 08:28 PM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Next door to the Bat-Cave
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Couple of tips/suggestions that might help while we're on our "restructuring hiatus":
Carnauba based waxes are usually less durable than a synthetic product. Here's why: Carnauba by itself is a dull, rock hard "wax". If you tried to apply pure carnauba to your car, you'd probably scratch it to heck and end up without any wax on your car. Carnauba by itself also doesn't bead water. Manufacturers have to add other waxes (parafin, beeswax, montana, etc) to help the wax spread, and to provide the beading that most people love. They also have to add oils to provide shine, depth and to make the wax spread easier.
Now, the problem comes when the "other" wax is added - it's melting point is usually around 140 degrees F, and to add fuel to the fire (so to speak), the favorite oil of most wax manufacturers is silicone or "heavy solvents". Next time the sun is out, measure the surface temperature of your car...you'll find that on a warm summer day, in the sunlight, your car's temperature can exceed 180 degrees F. Carnauba (in its solid form) melts at around 190 degrees F, but the carrier wax is melting at around 140 degrees.
Enthusiasts will argue that silicones and solvents dry your paint, but we're not sure we agree with that - at least we have to say that some solvents/silicones could dry your paint, but not will...
That said, I use P21S (after our test results) on my BMW. It's a carnauba, but I really prefer the look it gives. The Zymol waxes didn't fair very well in our tests - in fact, they scored pretty low, despite their 3, 4, 5, 10x prices. Rumor also has it that the Zymols contain some chemicals that aren't listed on their "ingredients", but we haven't confirmed this...we plan to analyze the products in Round 3.
Synthetics are supposed to be more paint friendly, and won't melt off of your car in hot weather. BlackFire, Klasse and Zaino are supposed to be stable in temps well over 300 degrees F. They are, however, slightly more difficult to use, because you have to be very careful to not apply too much product. We applied way too much Zaino when we first tried it, and as a result gave it a very low rating. After we realized we had used too much, we re-tested it and it ended up rating very well.
Then there's the case for "looks" - the carnaubas are usually "warm, soft and inviting" while most synthetics are "sterile, bright and harsh" when it comes to shine. This is all a question of personal taste. There are some awesome looking cars that have been treated with both carnauba's and synthetics - you have to be the judge of which look you prefer.
And, finally, 99.9% of the results are in the preparation - washing, claying, surface prep and polishing are where you should spend the most time and effort. The wax will only enhance the prep work you've done.
Sorry for the long post, consider it a little "preview" of what's to come.
Carnauba based waxes are usually less durable than a synthetic product. Here's why: Carnauba by itself is a dull, rock hard "wax". If you tried to apply pure carnauba to your car, you'd probably scratch it to heck and end up without any wax on your car. Carnauba by itself also doesn't bead water. Manufacturers have to add other waxes (parafin, beeswax, montana, etc) to help the wax spread, and to provide the beading that most people love. They also have to add oils to provide shine, depth and to make the wax spread easier.
Now, the problem comes when the "other" wax is added - it's melting point is usually around 140 degrees F, and to add fuel to the fire (so to speak), the favorite oil of most wax manufacturers is silicone or "heavy solvents". Next time the sun is out, measure the surface temperature of your car...you'll find that on a warm summer day, in the sunlight, your car's temperature can exceed 180 degrees F. Carnauba (in its solid form) melts at around 190 degrees F, but the carrier wax is melting at around 140 degrees.
Enthusiasts will argue that silicones and solvents dry your paint, but we're not sure we agree with that - at least we have to say that some solvents/silicones could dry your paint, but not will...
That said, I use P21S (after our test results) on my BMW. It's a carnauba, but I really prefer the look it gives. The Zymol waxes didn't fair very well in our tests - in fact, they scored pretty low, despite their 3, 4, 5, 10x prices. Rumor also has it that the Zymols contain some chemicals that aren't listed on their "ingredients", but we haven't confirmed this...we plan to analyze the products in Round 3.
Synthetics are supposed to be more paint friendly, and won't melt off of your car in hot weather. BlackFire, Klasse and Zaino are supposed to be stable in temps well over 300 degrees F. They are, however, slightly more difficult to use, because you have to be very careful to not apply too much product. We applied way too much Zaino when we first tried it, and as a result gave it a very low rating. After we realized we had used too much, we re-tested it and it ended up rating very well.
Then there's the case for "looks" - the carnaubas are usually "warm, soft and inviting" while most synthetics are "sterile, bright and harsh" when it comes to shine. This is all a question of personal taste. There are some awesome looking cars that have been treated with both carnauba's and synthetics - you have to be the judge of which look you prefer.
And, finally, 99.9% of the results are in the preparation - washing, claying, surface prep and polishing are where you should spend the most time and effort. The wax will only enhance the prep work you've done.
Sorry for the long post, consider it a little "preview" of what's to come.
01-13-2002, 09:00 AM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Levittown
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Zymol told me their expensive waxes are more hand made and the cheaper stuff (sold at Target, Pep Boys, etc) is in their suv section on-line. I buy a twin pack at Cost Co. and it works just fine for me.
