pikkashoe

I was just washing my car when I noticed a small area, about the size of an eraser on a pencil on my rear bumper. What ever hit it caused some major damage, I can see the black plastic bumper, the paint and clear coat are completely gone.

Any recommendations, my first urge was to get the bumper painted, but I am sure they will never able to match it correctly to the rest of the car. I have a silverstone.

Any guidance on paint repair. I have the touch paint from honda which has worked good on tiny rock chips on the front, but I have never tackled this large of a job. The clear coat around the chip is also cloudy.

Let me know, I am going to go run out and get some 1500 or 2000 grit wetsand paper, anyone have any idea where i can get some.

pikkashoe

Anyone know if homedepot carries 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper?

animeS2K

You'll likely need to go to an auto body paint shop for that. MAYBE Pep Boys or a similar store, but you can definitely find it at an auto body paint shop.

It sounds like somebody bumped into you in a parking lot or something. From your description, it sounds like one of the bolts holding their license plate on pushed into the bumper.

I might try just cleaning it really well (with Prepsol or rubbing alcohol) and very carefully painting in the area with the touch-up paint. Let it cure for a few days before you try to smooth it out - maybe try polishing it smooth before you go to the wet-sanding. I get the impression that the paint on the bumpers isn't quite as thick as on the metal...

Edit: also you may be able to find a paintless dent removal place/person that also does small touchups with an airbrush. I've had good luck with such work in the past.

pikkashoe

Anime,

It looks like what you described, but the bumper is not dented.

I located the wet sanding paper, i got 2000 and 1500.

I am going to fill in the hole with touch paint, couple coats.

I plan to put one coat every 2 hours, then once the final coat is on there, let it cure for about 3 days, then hit it with the 1500 then 2000 wet sanding paper.

Then just buff it out using polish.

If it fails, then I will find a pdr guy to airbrush it for me. How much does that normally run? Any suggestions for someone in the Miami area! LOL

wanabe

sounds like a repaint might be in order...
however, you have nothing to lose from trying this yourself- the best instructions that i know of (from our member autopia):

http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=27

pikkashoe

Hey wanabe, thanks for the great link.

That will be instrumental in helping me complete this.

I have the sandpaper and the touch paint.

I have a question for you regarding the products used in the link you sent me.

Maybe you know.

In the final step where you buff out the wet sanding marks, he recommends using 3M Perfect-It Rubbing Compound or Eagle One Scratch Remover.

I have meguiars fine cut cleaner, is this the same product and will it work to buff out the sanding marks?

Let me know, i dont mind buying the correct products to get the job done right.

wanabe

a rubbing compound is more aggressive than a fine cut.
a fine cut is one of the least aggressive of the true polishes.
(swirl removers and paint cleaners are the least aggressive)
what he is suggesting is a "taper-down"... use a more aggressive polish, then a less aggressive one until you get to the least aggressive. this should return the paint to brand new condition-
you could start with your fine cut and then go to the swirl remover... or start with the rubbing compound to the fine cut to the swirl remover.

your fine cut is great for getting out small scratches and anything that a swirl remover wont get (on fairly good paint)

hope this helps!

pikkashoe

Thanks for the help wanabe.

I got the fine cut, but not a swirl remover.

Time to order a swirl remover, any suggestions wanabe.

I have glaze, but thats after the swirl remover.

I hope I can fix bumper.

animeS2K

What kind of top coat do you put on your car? That would help to determine which glaze and swirl remover you should use. In other words, if you use a natural/carnauba-based wax, a Meguiar's glaze and swirl remover would be fine, but if you use a Zaino-like synthetic, you want to use a compatible glaze or swirl remover for best adhesion/bonding of the topcoat.

I assume you're using a PC or rotary to do the post-sanding work? I've had relatively good luck with the Poorboy's SSR line (I'd say 2.5 and 1 for finishing this job), but the 3M line is also very good (PerfectIt 2 Fine Cut or PI3 rubbing compound, followed by the SMR for dark cars). If you want to spend a tad more for some premium polishes, the Menzerna Intensive Polish (IP) followed by Final Polish (FP, FP2).

If you went Meguiar's, I'd say to hit it first with #83 DACP, then #80 or #82 if you're going a natural wax route, or follow #80 with Klasse AIO as your base sealant if you're going the synthetic route. AIO will remove any gloss/oil that #80 leaves behind and itself provides a little protection.

With all these combos, I'd suggest starting your heavy work with a light cutting pad and the finishing work with a polishing pad, preferably a 4" version, to focus your efforts to the immediate area and work it faster.

There are many many options

pikkashoe

Anime,

I use Zaino on my car, so a synthetic.

I already have the meguiars fine cut cleaner. I am in the process of getting a swirl remover for the second step.

I wond be using a PC for the sanding work, as the spot I am trying to repair is within half an inch of the tail light, so it will all be by hand.

My plan is to start with the Meguiars Fine cut cleaner( after wet sanding), then take to it a the swirl remover, to remove what ever imperfections are left by the fine cut cleaner.

After that I will hit it with some S100 (P21S) until I get time to redo the area with Zaino.


I think for the swirl remover, I am going to go with the 3 M Perfect It.