but o well i'm going to ask anyways. I can see that the "how to" links did not display this question probably because everybody already knows how to do it.

I dont know how to wax a car!

The S is berlina black and everytime after i wash it, it gets dirty right away, i'm thinking maybe a good waxing will help out a little bit.

First question: What wax? just any or a certain one ( some of the products that people recommend is not offered a the local kragen.

Second question: I'm guessing that i would have to wash it first. Do i just apply the wax on the car and began wiping with a towel?

Third question: No swirling right? So do i just do a one direction motion?

 

What brand or type of paint protection is a matter of personal preference. You can get a genuine wax (like carnuba) or a synthetic polish. How to do it will be on the instructions on the bottle or the manufacturer's website (like Zaino). Each one may have a different way of putting it on and taking it off.

I'm currently trying to use up my last batch of Zaino. It's a very good paint shine/protectant, but nothing super duper special. I'll be going to a simple "wax on, wax off" type of product next.

 

sweet thank you!

any quick suggestions before i start? i'll probably try it on my 4runner first haha.

 

I'm always a fan of Klasse SG for a synthetic if you do the wipe on/buff off method.
I like P21S for a Carnauba.

I want to try out some Souveran sometime soon too, as well as the Zaino line. Havent gotten that far yet.

 

IMHO, and I dont think anyone will argue with this, since this is the BASIC way to wax a car.

Wash the car with your choice of car soap. I use whatever is on sale (ie Eagle One, Meguires, whatever, just use top shelf stuff, not the .99 cents for 17 gallons crap)

Purchase a California waterblade. Your local Autozone will have it for 20 bucks, and Costco will have it for 10. Will save you a lot of time on drying.
Purchase a waffle microfiber drying towel (also at Autozone), to wipe up what the waterblade missed.

(WARNING) Always run your fingers down the waterblade to make sure there are no grains on it. They will cause major scratches. For this reason, when your car is wet, start on the glass first. After you are finished, use the waffle towel to get what the waterblade didnt get.

Go and eat some lunch (20 minutes) and let the rest of the car airdry. (Dont forget to open the doors, hood, and trunk, and wipe up all the execess water (With another clean towel, not the waffle one. That is for body only)

Next, Purchase your choice of wax. IMHO, the best over the counter wax for a black car (easy to use easy to apply/remove, cheap) is Meguires Gold Class. I think its great, had fantastic results with it, and nothing I have used (including the $$$ stuff) has been better. Some of them were as good, but not better. If you can, get the paste. Easier to work with if you are new, much harder to overapply.

Now, purchase (again, costco has like a 30 pack for 12.99 while at a store like Autozone, microfiber buffing towels are like 9 dollars for 3) microfiber buffing towels. Most of them are about 12"x12"

(WARNING) You know those tags clothes have that itch your neck? Every towel will have them. RIP THEM OFF! They will scratch your paint.

Now, in the shade or garage, begin to wax.

1)Apply a hypnotist shape bead of wax on the pad included in the box of your wax. (WARNING) buy extra pads when you get the wax. In case you drop the pad on the floor, DO NOT USE IT AGAIN. Chuck it.
By hypnotist, I mean that swirly shape, from outside in. Start with the center of the hood. If you are using paste, just put the pad on top of the wax, and give it a full twist with a drop of pressure.

(If you are in the shade/garage you may wax the whole car before you buff. If you cannot avoid the sun, do one panel at a time, but make sure the wax is dry first)

Distribute by rubbing the wax all over the panel. Some recommend small circular motions, while others go back and forth. Whatever works for you. Distribute it evenly.

How much wax to use? Cant tell you that on the internet, but can give you a guideline. If your paint looks like it has white paint over it, its too much. It should look like someone sanded off your clearcoat. Came color as the car, but not shiny. Basically, in your case, flat black. (Overapplication will do nothing but make it a PITA to remove)

Once you have completed the car/panel, you may remove it. Make sure its dry. It should "dandruff" off with ease. If it is smearing, its not dry. However, a good guideline, is, if you start waxing from the hood, work your way to the pass. side, rear, drivers side and back to the hood, you may remove in the same exact order. Reason being, by the time you get back around, the wax had enough time to cure. Some people like to leave they wax on for 2 hours to cure, but IMHO, there is no evidence of this doing anything beneficial, just BS if you ask me.

2)Removing. So, grab one of those new 12"x12" MF cloths, and fold it in half, then half again. You now have a 3" plush square. Begin rubbing the haze off the car. Dont go crazy, remove 90-98% of it. If you see a little streak mark or whatever, dont worry, move on. (If you feel the MF cloth is becoming more resistant to removing wax, flip/fold it over to a clean side)
Once the initial buffing has taken place, grab a clean MF cloth, and with the entire 12"x12", rub down the entire car, and this time, pay attention. Make it gleam!

(WARNING) DO NOT GET ANY WAX ON RUBBER TRIM OR THE TOP. IT WILL STAIN.

(Contrary to popular belief, the black trim under the side glass and around the area where the trunk meets the top is NON PERMEABLE plastic. Wax will NOT stain that. It will stain the rubber around the windows, and gasket type materials.

Finally, do the Dave test (Im Dave ) Take a clean MF towel. Stand on the drivers side fender area. Now, like skipping a stone across the pond, throw the wrag over your hood. If it sticks and stay on the hood, bad wax job. If it flies over the hood, fender, and on to the other side, SUCCESS!

I have been doing waxing in this manner for YEARS, and have always had great results. I recently started using the Porter Cable, but you need to learn the basics first. Good luck. Its not as hard as it looks according to everyones writing. It is a lengthy process (only due to wait time) but grab a cold beer, blast some music, and enjoy taking care of your black s2000.

P.S. *Black Car Joke Ahead*

All your efforts will be made useless in 30 minutes, because black cars stay clean just long enough for you to take a picture.

P.P.S
There are no stupid questions, especially if you do not know how to do something. You definetely did the right thing by asking. I WOULD think you are stupid, if you didnt know how to wax a car, tried it without asking, and posted a thread saying " I tried waxing for the first time, and scratched my car, how can I fix it?"

 

good tips.

im only going to bring this up just to have it out here. if you wash your car pretty regularly and only want shine and not much pertection Turtle wax ICE has no residue and is the easiest thing ever to apply and remove. if does look amazing on black paint.

i suggest using the method NFR stated but it all comes down to how much you car about your car. you will find tons of information on this board about products and how good they are and what they really do. just keep reading.

btw, while your at auto zone for your MF towels pick up a black magic detail kit (the one with 3 detail brushs, specifically the one with the rubber fin on the end) this will help if you happen to make the same mistake i did and get wax into the door jams or into the door handel.

 

Great tips so far. I second the Gold Class suggestion for a beginner. It's very easy to work with (never used ICE).

I would also suggest to try to spread and remove in lines parallel to wind flow over the car. This will minimize swirl and/or scratch problems (especially for a beginner).

Also, it's MUCH better to go a little light on the wax than too heavy.

You might want to complete the steps on one fender to get your feet wet, then move on to more sections at a time.

Good luck and have a good time!

 

For a beginner I would suggest using Klasse AIO, it goes on and comes off very easy is is fairly long lasting. Good luck with whatever method you use, there are plenty of good products out there.

 

sweet writeup dave :up:

Anything special for red cars?

 

Really? I use AIO now, and although IMHO, it lasts longer, it is harder to take off than Meguires products (I think part of the reason it last longer is that it dries a LOT harder)

Hmmmm...If you are talking about just wash/wax, then no. If you are talking polish/wax, then yes.

They have polishes, usually yellow in color, that are formulated for dark blues and reds. Makes a color pop a little bit more. Otherwise, nothing that I really tried.

As of right now (doing it tomorrow actually...)

1)Wash with eagle one car wash / 3 teaspoons of dawn.
2)Clay Magic claybar (half the price of mothers, and is JDM...no Im not kidding, read the box ...says made in Japan.)

3)Wash with eagle one.
4)Dry
5)Detail interior with lexol/vynilex
6)Treat top with Vynilex
7)Portercable with AIO
8)Buff by hand.
9)Stand back and oggle.