Porter cable vs other polishers?
#1
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I'm looking to step up my detailing game with the new S. I bought it used (3 years old), but would like to keep it looking as new as possible for as long as possible.
I've always waxed cars by hand, but I have to confess this is tedious and tiresome. I do this primarily to avoid the dreaded swirl marks I've seen made by people (mis)using orbital polishers. People seem to love the porter cable polisher though and this has seriously made me rethink using one.
In short, why do people seem to use the Porter Cable over other polishers? Are they really worth the extra money? What is the difference?
I also noticed that PC has two different models of polishers that seem to be popular, the 7424 and 7424XP. The latter of which seems to cost about 50% less than the standard 7424. Comments on one vs the other? I want to do this one and do it right. Money isn't a huge issue, though I'd rather not throw away $115 extra on a polisher I won't fully take advantage of.
Also, can you recommend a good set of pads to keep a 2007 model S2000 in good shape? I also have a 2000 Toyota Celica (white) with paint that needs some work. If those pads could accommodate some nice restoration work on the celica, that would be a plus.
Thanks
I've always waxed cars by hand, but I have to confess this is tedious and tiresome. I do this primarily to avoid the dreaded swirl marks I've seen made by people (mis)using orbital polishers. People seem to love the porter cable polisher though and this has seriously made me rethink using one.
In short, why do people seem to use the Porter Cable over other polishers? Are they really worth the extra money? What is the difference?
I also noticed that PC has two different models of polishers that seem to be popular, the 7424 and 7424XP. The latter of which seems to cost about 50% less than the standard 7424. Comments on one vs the other? I want to do this one and do it right. Money isn't a huge issue, though I'd rather not throw away $115 extra on a polisher I won't fully take advantage of.
Also, can you recommend a good set of pads to keep a 2007 model S2000 in good shape? I also have a 2000 Toyota Celica (white) with paint that needs some work. If those pads could accommodate some nice restoration work on the celica, that would be a plus.
Thanks
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#3
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One needs to distinguish between orbital polishers, which are only useful to the application of liquid waxes, and dual action polishers, which can be safely used to remove swirls and scratches. Orbital polishers, IMHO, are a waste of time and money; but a dual action polisher is a great tool for anyone who wants to improve and restore the paint of his car. You can also safely apply liquid wax or sealant with the DA, but its principal use is paint correction.
The three most popular DA candidates here in the U.S. are: (1) Porter-Cable 7424XP, (2) Meguiar's G110 v.2, and (3) Griot's 6" Random Orbital Polisher. The machines appear to be comparable in power, though I've read that the edge goes to the Griot's machine. The older PC 7424 has been effectively replaced by the more powerful 7424XP. A fourth candidate is the Flex 3401, which combines the oscillating motion of the DA with the forced rotation of the rotary. I also have the Flex but have had problems using it on the soft Honda paint of my black S2K.
I'm afraid I can't really help you on pads. I have the G110 and have been using the 7" Meguiar's pads. I wish now I had invested in 5.5" Lake Country pads. Others will have to advise you on them. I would call Phil at Detailer's Domain , our sponsor, and ask him his advice on polishers, polishes, and pads: 201-660-7010.
The three most popular DA candidates here in the U.S. are: (1) Porter-Cable 7424XP, (2) Meguiar's G110 v.2, and (3) Griot's 6" Random Orbital Polisher. The machines appear to be comparable in power, though I've read that the edge goes to the Griot's machine. The older PC 7424 has been effectively replaced by the more powerful 7424XP. A fourth candidate is the Flex 3401, which combines the oscillating motion of the DA with the forced rotation of the rotary. I also have the Flex but have had problems using it on the soft Honda paint of my black S2K.
I'm afraid I can't really help you on pads. I have the G110 and have been using the 7" Meguiar's pads. I wish now I had invested in 5.5" Lake Country pads. Others will have to advise you on them. I would call Phil at Detailer's Domain , our sponsor, and ask him his advice on polishers, polishes, and pads: 201-660-7010.
#4
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I prefer the Porter DA polisher used with Lake Country pads to handle most of the work I do. The Meguiar's 105 and 205 products allow the novice (like me) to get results close to a rotaty polisher without the risk. I recently detailed a vehicle with swirls, very bad acid rain residue and small scratches and it came out looking great using these products with the Porter and Lake country pads.
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Thanks for the replies. I'm strongly leaning towards the 7424XP. Can you explain why standard orbital polishers aren't such a good idea? What's the difference between an orbital and a dual action polisher?
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I bought the 7424XP and love it. Works really well.
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#8
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For the weekend warrior the 7424XP is a nice set-up. I detail as a hobby with a friend on mine and for a while all we used was the PC. We have since upgraded to a Flex. The Flex is a monster and great for a 1st pass but we both still like the 7424 for finished work and tighter areas.
I would invest in a few pads. You really could get away with a few uber greens, blues, and blacks. You would really only need an orange for the "first" polish of the paint, then greens would be more then adequate.
Don't forget you need GOOD micro fiber towels, nothing like messing up a nice detail job by using sub par MF towels that can scratch the paint.
I would also point you towards the Menzerna line of compounds. They are very friendly and break down to leave a nice finish. SIP is a great single pass compound but following up with an 106FA leaves a nice jewel to the paint.
Deffinitly look at the Menzerna Power Lock sealant, great added protection to your now shiner S. You can top it with a wax if you would like (which i like to) and I would recommend the Prima line's Banana Gloss and the use of Hydro after a wash as a maintenance wax.
Best thing, Phil over a DD caries all of this. I would also point you over to detailingbliss.com, sponsored by DD, for some great info and write ups to detail a car, for the novice and the pros.
I would invest in a few pads. You really could get away with a few uber greens, blues, and blacks. You would really only need an orange for the "first" polish of the paint, then greens would be more then adequate.
Don't forget you need GOOD micro fiber towels, nothing like messing up a nice detail job by using sub par MF towels that can scratch the paint.
I would also point you towards the Menzerna line of compounds. They are very friendly and break down to leave a nice finish. SIP is a great single pass compound but following up with an 106FA leaves a nice jewel to the paint.
Deffinitly look at the Menzerna Power Lock sealant, great added protection to your now shiner S. You can top it with a wax if you would like (which i like to) and I would recommend the Prima line's Banana Gloss and the use of Hydro after a wash as a maintenance wax.
Best thing, Phil over a DD caries all of this. I would also point you over to detailingbliss.com, sponsored by DD, for some great info and write ups to detail a car, for the novice and the pros.
#9
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Originally Posted by SilverS2kF22C1,Dec 7 2010, 03:31 PM
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Best thing, Phil over a DD caries all of this. I would also point you over to detailingbliss.com, sponsored by DD, for some great info and write ups to detail a car, for the novice and the pros.
Best thing, Phil over a DD caries all of this. I would also point you over to detailingbliss.com, sponsored by DD, for some great info and write ups to detail a car, for the novice and the pros.
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