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I remember the PFAB equal length mani has had vibration problems which lead to cracked manifolds, but I cant remember if its from bad motor mounts or no flex pipe on the downpipe, or both. Im in no way saying you shouldn't get a pfab, just putting this out there.
You are better off chopping off your crossmember and making a custom forward facing/bottom mount hybrid. That will allow for a pretty large turbo, long runners, and a full 4" exhaust.
Your idea for a top mount will clog up space and generate a ton of heat. What is pushing you to do this? Are you just trying to switch things up?
You are better off chopping off your crossmember and making a custom forward facing/bottom mount hybrid. That will allow for a pretty large turbo, long runners, and a full 4" exhaust.
Your idea for a top mount will clog up space and generate a ton of heat. What is pushing you to do this? Are you just trying to switch things up?
Yeah very true and I have considered it. It is just that I had my bay fully shaved and it got a mint paint job so I hate like hell to cut the beam out now that has already been filled and shaved. But it is still an option. As far as the heat goes Im not worried about it because I have everything tucked and relocated so there is not a single wire in the exhaust side of the bay and just has that big open area. Ideally I would want a twin scroll T4 with dual 44mm gates if room, both recirculating into the downpipe then come right out the fender or hood. Since under the car a 4" most likely wont work, I only want 1 hole coming out the fender/hood so that is why I would recirculate the dump(s) into the downpipe/uppipe.
Removing that cross beam may wreak havoc to the structural integrity I would assume, if you didn't at least plate the front of the motor. Honda designed that in for a reason. Would you design another cross beam in after removing the stock one?
I chose topmount because the long runner manifolds negatively impact spool and in general, have pretty poor downpipe design. I also really dislike how they vibrate the car since the turbo is hanging off the front of the block like a pendulum unsupported which also causes material/weld failures over time since everyone loves to use 304L so much. God forbid you coat one of these manifolds and actually roadrace it and plan on not having to fix it.
You can not run a 4" downpipe right off the turbo with a topmount, as there is simply not enough room unless you route it right out of the hood. If you made custom engine mounts and tweaked the whole block towards the center you might, but not with factory and factory replacement mounts.
I first stated looking at the pfab manfiolds but I really didn't like their cheated short radius bends, poor placement of the wastegate(s) combined with a VERY short collector on both their ELT and twinscroll manifold. The cherry on top for me is that they didn't offer coating and if I did coat them I'd void my warranty. Since I've already seen weld failures on this forum, combined with the fact that they're using 304L, I knew that if I bought one and coated it, it would simply be a matter of time before it cracked since 304L does not like heat cycling or stress from the job of supporting a turbo, nevermind the ceramic coating keeping heat in. Lastly, I also didn't really get a great idea of turbo sizing constraints of what will actually fit there when I called in. The EFR series turbos are gigantic and are the same size or bigger than a GTX4508/ Comp CT5X w/ GT42 housing, precision 6870, etc. I'm sure if I wanted to fit a GTX3582 it'd be fine, but I was looking for a bit more juice.
My solution was to just come up with my own manifold in solidworks. It's made out of 321 schedule 10 with an ID of 1.682" vs 1.610" for schedule 40 and in addition my head flange is tapered from the exhaust port to the ID of my tubing to ensure that my flow is nice and smooth. I will say if my manifold sucks, I'll eat crow, sure, but I suspect I've put in more time thinking about how my manifold will actually flow and testing it out in CFD than some of the other companies. Not all manifolds are created equal and there are always tradeoffs in cost, where power is made, and longevity.
I chose topmount because the long runner manifolds negatively impact spool and in general, have pretty poor downpipe design. I also really dislike how they vibrate the car since the turbo is hanging off the front of the block like a pendulum unsupported which also causes material/weld failures over time since everyone loves to use 304L so much. God forbid you coat one of these manifolds and actually roadrace it and plan on not having to fix it.
You can not run a 4" downpipe right off the turbo with a topmount, as there is simply not enough room unless you route it right out of the hood. If you made custom engine mounts and tweaked the whole block towards the center you might, but not with factory and factory replacement mounts.
I first stated looking at the pfab manfiolds but I really didn't like their cheated short radius bends, poor placement of the wastegate(s) combined with a VERY short collector on both their ELT and twinscroll manifold. The cherry on top for me is that they didn't offer coating and if I did coat them I'd void my warranty. Since I've already seen weld failures on this forum, combined with the fact that they're using 304L, I knew that if I bought one and coated it, it would simply be a matter of time before it cracked since 304L does not like heat cycling or stress from the job of supporting a turbo, nevermind the ceramic coating keeping heat in. Lastly, I also didn't really get a great idea of turbo sizing constraints of what will actually fit there when I called in. The EFR series turbos are gigantic and are the same size or bigger than a GTX4508/ Comp CT5X w/ GT42 housing, precision 6870, etc. I'm sure if I wanted to fit a GTX3582 it'd be fine, but I was looking for a bit more juice.
My solution was to just come up with my own manifold in solidworks. It's made out of 321 schedule 10 with an ID of 1.682" vs 1.610" for schedule 40 and in addition my head flange is tapered from the exhaust port to the ID of my tubing to ensure that my flow is nice and smooth. I will say if my manifold sucks, I'll eat crow, sure, but I suspect I've put in more time thinking about how my manifold will actually flow and testing it out in CFD than some of the other companies. Not all manifolds are created equal and there are always tradeoffs in cost, where power is made, and longevity.
Here's some shots of my manifold.
(shot of the downpipe in this pic)
nice fab work ! what welder are you running? i have an old miller 330a no square wave form me
I love that manifold man! So bad ass! Exactly what I am looking to do. Only I would try and place the flange a little higher and try to get the gate placement more in line of the flow. I'm still toying with the idea of trying to make the same think twin scroll. Guess I'll find out when we start fabricating it. I'm also VTEC killer so j have some more room where my solenoid was if I need to come toward the front of the motor. But I'm definitely gonna steal your idea for sizing on the runners and flange. Where did you get your manifold flange? If you made it wanna sell another?
You have about another inch for it to go higher if you don't want to run it with a quickspool valve. Wastegate flow for this is fantastic based on the model I have of it in solidworks, fitting 2 gates is possible and I have a model for that one as well.
As far as the flange, I don't have any more but I'm going to do another production run... Shooting you a PM.
A little bit of an older thread, but I've been searching around on build's... I wanted to fit an EFR 7064 into a top mount configuration, so I dropped off my turbo with Pfab and currently having a manifold and downpipe built. I asked him to add bracing as I will be tracking this setup and I am using all the built-in's of the EFR turbo. I am pretty excited to try it out and here are the pictures I have so far.
EDIT: It's done; now to pick it up.
Last edited by yamahaSHO; Dec 23, 2016 at 07:57 PM.