Clutch Bleeding - Help, AIR!!!
That sucks! If you're going to drive with it the way it is, you can always adjust the clutch pedal to raise the engagement point. I adjusted mine a while back to remove the free play. If you look at 12-4 in the Helm's manual, adjusting part B and E will raise / lower the pedal and / or raise / lower the engagement point.
Well, here's the verdict:
Doing just that, I adjusted the pedal to see if I could make it more driveable. I turned the pushrods a few turns (lightly) until I could feel a little resistance (indicating I was building pressure. Was something like 4 or 5 turns. I backed it off a turn to be safe (a little free play) and tried it. It now engaged/disengaged at the TOP of the pedal travel. After messing with it, I found that it only took about 1 turn from where it was originally to remove the dead play and get it to where it needed to be.
I'm still baffled as to how my fluid flushing affected this, but I'm glad it's fixed. I have never messed with the adjustment before!
Doing just that, I adjusted the pedal to see if I could make it more driveable. I turned the pushrods a few turns (lightly) until I could feel a little resistance (indicating I was building pressure. Was something like 4 or 5 turns. I backed it off a turn to be safe (a little free play) and tried it. It now engaged/disengaged at the TOP of the pedal travel. After messing with it, I found that it only took about 1 turn from where it was originally to remove the dead play and get it to where it needed to be.
I'm still baffled as to how my fluid flushing affected this, but I'm glad it's fixed. I have never messed with the adjustment before!
Not sure if you guys read my last post, but I fixed it with a pushrod adjustment, it wasn't air.
When I did it, I checked pedal height which was fine. I then went to the pushrod adjustment and dialed out the dead play. This moved the engagement point so far up that I was uncomfortable with it... so I adjusted by "feel" to move the point more to where it was. That's when I found the adjustment was just barely off.
cdelena told me he once blew out his slave cylinder at Texas World Speedway (on the track), one of the bolts backed out (shoddy dealer work). He found a bolt, popped the piston back in it, then bled the system by himself by pumping and adding fluid. He said it worked fine.
When I did it, I checked pedal height which was fine. I then went to the pushrod adjustment and dialed out the dead play. This moved the engagement point so far up that I was uncomfortable with it... so I adjusted by "feel" to move the point more to where it was. That's when I found the adjustment was just barely off.
cdelena told me he once blew out his slave cylinder at Texas World Speedway (on the track), one of the bolts backed out (shoddy dealer work). He found a bolt, popped the piston back in it, then bled the system by himself by pumping and adding fluid. He said it worked fine.
The only fault I see with that is that the engagement point should have moved closer to the top of the pedal, then, rather than closer to the floor. I agree that something was up, though, since the pedal adjustment never changed before!
Originally posted by marcucci
The only fault I see with that is that the engagement point should have moved closer to the top of the pedal, then, rather than closer to the floor. I agree that something was up, though, since the pedal adjustment never changed before!
The only fault I see with that is that the engagement point should have moved closer to the top of the pedal, then, rather than closer to the floor. I agree that something was up, though, since the pedal adjustment never changed before!
j/k of course. This sounds like one of lifes' little mysteries.
How difficult was it to adjust the engagement point fo the pedal? It sounded like the adjustment was fairly touchy/sensitive?
Thanks,
Bob



