Better upgrade for ap1? Ap2 rear subframe or rear bumpsteer kit
#1
Better upgrade for ap1? Ap2 rear subframe or rear bumpsteer kit
Dont believe I've came across this topic while searching, but what are thoughts about this with cost set aside? I know rear bumpsteer kits can be had for over half or 1/3rd price of doing AP2 rear subframe swap. What would be most beneficial in making most difference in correcting bumpsteer and handling?
#2
Former Sponsor
The easy way is to do the rear bumpsteer kit, you won't get nearly as much toe change throughout the stroke as stock. There should be some threads mapping AP2 toe change and AP1 toe change with and without the toe arms.
The following users liked this post:
mojo_jojo77777 (01-03-2018)
#3
I went with a subframe.
I'm cautious...and would rather have OEM parts for points/classing at time trial events...and because aftermarket ball joints worry me. Especially ones with a bending load added to them.
After selling my AP1 parts, I was out maybe $200?
I got AP2 UCA's, spindles, rear bar, and subframe. LCAs and toe arms are the samesies.
I'm cautious...and would rather have OEM parts for points/classing at time trial events...and because aftermarket ball joints worry me. Especially ones with a bending load added to them.
After selling my AP1 parts, I was out maybe $200?
I got AP2 UCA's, spindles, rear bar, and subframe. LCAs and toe arms are the samesies.
The following 5 users liked this post by B serious:
lab_rat (06-10-2019),
LaosguyAP1 (01-11-2018),
mojo_jojo77777 (01-03-2018),
THMotorsports (01-03-2018),
ZDan (01-04-2018)
#4
I went with a subframe.
I'm cautious...and would rather have OEM parts for points/classing at time trial events...and because aftermarket ball joints worry me. Especially ones with a bending load added to them.
After selling my AP1 parts, I was out maybe $200?
I got AP2 UCA's, spindles, rear bar, and subframe. LCAs and toe arms are the samesies.
I'm cautious...and would rather have OEM parts for points/classing at time trial events...and because aftermarket ball joints worry me. Especially ones with a bending load added to them.
After selling my AP1 parts, I was out maybe $200?
I got AP2 UCA's, spindles, rear bar, and subframe. LCAs and toe arms are the samesies.
#5
Aftermarket toe correction is easier to implement
Initial cost is cheaper with aftermarket, but if you sell off old stuff, subframe isn't all that expensive
Replacing subframe is more work, but likely to be more reliable, and more effective for the desired result (minimize toe change)
If there is ever any damage, its probably easier to find replacement parts for the oem solution
It sounds like replacing subframe is the more bulletproof solution, and only drawback is effort involved.
#6
Former Sponsor
Summarizing responses:
Aftermarket toe correction is easier to implement
Initial cost is cheaper with aftermarket, but if you sell off old stuff, subframe isn't all that expensive
Replacing subframe is more work, but likely to be more reliable, and more effective for the desired result (minimize toe change)
If there is ever any damage, its probably easier to find replacement parts for the oem solution
It sounds like replacing subframe is the more bulletproof solution, and only drawback is effort involved.
Aftermarket toe correction is easier to implement
Initial cost is cheaper with aftermarket, but if you sell off old stuff, subframe isn't all that expensive
Replacing subframe is more work, but likely to be more reliable, and more effective for the desired result (minimize toe change)
If there is ever any damage, its probably easier to find replacement parts for the oem solution
It sounds like replacing subframe is the more bulletproof solution, and only drawback is effort involved.
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#8
Megan rear bump steer kit has my vote
Id be interested to see a graph comparison between a proper set up bump steer kit and OEM/Ap2. Id be surprised if there was much difference. Cheap and easy is what I tend to go with if the aftermarket parts are proven, and they are for me in this case.
Id be interested to see a graph comparison between a proper set up bump steer kit and OEM/Ap2. Id be surprised if there was much difference. Cheap and easy is what I tend to go with if the aftermarket parts are proven, and they are for me in this case.
#9
BSK is cheaper and easier; however, i'd consider it a wear and tear item that requires proper maintenance and replacement.
If you have the resources and mechanical know how, i'd do OEM-AP2.
On track failure below from a local that I've tracked with and taken ride-alongs with:
If you have the resources and mechanical know how, i'd do OEM-AP2.
On track failure below from a local that I've tracked with and taken ride-alongs with: