stupid question about...
What will a Fan switch, Rad cap, and a T'stat do to enhance the performance of my s2k. I know it involves keeping the car cooler but what will they do exactly.
OH..
The fan switch turns the fan on at a lower temperature.
The Rad Cap allows for greater presurization of the cooling system allowing for greater flow.
and the T-Switch allows coolant to flow at a lower temperature.
The fan switch turns the fan on at a lower temperature.
The Rad Cap allows for greater presurization of the cooling system allowing for greater flow.
and the T-Switch allows coolant to flow at a lower temperature.
Originally Posted by DaWorm,Aug 4 2004, 01:36 PM
I'm not really an expert but.... engines make more power when the run cooler.. so by keeping the car cooler.. you create more power...
Originally Posted by bigpurp,Aug 4 2004, 01:45 PM
I'm no expert either, but I don't think this is totally accurate. Running cooler will not necessarily make more power, it will simply prevent/delay the negative effects of heat soak and such, thereby preventing/delaying loss of power.
it doesn't create more power.. it prevents/delays power loss...
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bigpurp has expressed the right concept.
Here are some additional details:
The fan switch does turn on the fan at a lower temperature, however once the engine has reached thermal equilibrium with the cooling system, it has no effect on increased cooling. There are downsides to a lower temp fan switch in that it delays engine warm-up, increasing start-up emissions and decreasing engine efficiency.
A higher pressure radiator cap on its own also does nothing to improve cooling. The increased pressure that it can hold is only beneficial if you run low antifreeze concentrations or none at all. Water has a higher thermal transfer rate compared with antifreeze/water mixes, but 50% antifreeze/water coolant concentration is recommended in street-driven cars for its ability to depress the freezing point, increase the boiling point and provide lubrication and corrosion resistance to the cooling fluid. In a race car, antifreeze is a track hazard when spilled since it's much more slippery than water. Also, since track-driven vehicles undergo large heat stress, they need all the cooling capabilities that they can get. So, the increased pressure radiator caps allow racers to run water (usually with some other surfactant like Redline water wetter) without as high a risk of boiling the coolant [higher pressure also depresses the boiling point of a fluid].
When was the last time that you boiled the coolant out of the S2000? If this has never happened to you, there is no benefit from a higher pressure radiator cap.
In some cases a lower temperature thermostat can reduce the operating temperature of the car. But, is this desireable? If the coolant starts to flow before the car has a chance to fully warm up, you delay its efficient operation. But, if you regularly subject the car to high heat stress a lower temperature thermostat will delay the onset of high coolant temperatures, but on its own may not reduce operating temps.
The only way to reliably reduce operating temperatures is to use a higher capacity radiator coupled with one or more of the items mentioned above. This may be necessary on FI cars, but hardly so in a moderatly stock normally aspirated S2000.
That's my 2p
.
Here are some additional details:
The fan switch does turn on the fan at a lower temperature, however once the engine has reached thermal equilibrium with the cooling system, it has no effect on increased cooling. There are downsides to a lower temp fan switch in that it delays engine warm-up, increasing start-up emissions and decreasing engine efficiency.
A higher pressure radiator cap on its own also does nothing to improve cooling. The increased pressure that it can hold is only beneficial if you run low antifreeze concentrations or none at all. Water has a higher thermal transfer rate compared with antifreeze/water mixes, but 50% antifreeze/water coolant concentration is recommended in street-driven cars for its ability to depress the freezing point, increase the boiling point and provide lubrication and corrosion resistance to the cooling fluid. In a race car, antifreeze is a track hazard when spilled since it's much more slippery than water. Also, since track-driven vehicles undergo large heat stress, they need all the cooling capabilities that they can get. So, the increased pressure radiator caps allow racers to run water (usually with some other surfactant like Redline water wetter) without as high a risk of boiling the coolant [higher pressure also depresses the boiling point of a fluid].
When was the last time that you boiled the coolant out of the S2000? If this has never happened to you, there is no benefit from a higher pressure radiator cap.
In some cases a lower temperature thermostat can reduce the operating temperature of the car. But, is this desireable? If the coolant starts to flow before the car has a chance to fully warm up, you delay its efficient operation. But, if you regularly subject the car to high heat stress a lower temperature thermostat will delay the onset of high coolant temperatures, but on its own may not reduce operating temps.
The only way to reliably reduce operating temperatures is to use a higher capacity radiator coupled with one or more of the items mentioned above. This may be necessary on FI cars, but hardly so in a moderatly stock normally aspirated S2000.
That's my 2p
.
bigpurp has expressed the right concept.
Here are some additional details:
The fan switch does turn on the fan at a lower temperature, however once the engine has reached thermal equilibrium with the cooling system, it has no effect on increased cooling. There are downsides to a lower temp fan switch in that it delays engine warm-up, increasing start-up emissions and decreasing engine efficiency.
A higher pressure radiator cap on its own also does nothing to improve cooling. The increased pressure that it can hold is only beneficial if you run low antifreeze concentrations or none at all. Water has a higher thermal transfer rate compared with antifreeze/water mixes, but 50% antifreeze/water coolant concentration is recommended in street-driven cars for its ability to depress the freezing point, increase the boiling point and provide lubrication and corrosion resistance to the cooling fluid. In a race car, antifreeze is a track hazard when spilled since it's much more slippery than water. Also, since track-driven vehicles undergo large heat stress, they need all the cooling capabilities that they can get. So, the increased pressure radiator caps allow racers to run water (usually with some other surfactant like Redline water wetter) without as high a risk of boiling the coolant [higher pressure also depresses the boiling point of a fluid].
When was the last time that you boiled the coolant out of the S2000? If this has never happened to you, there is no benefit from a higher pressure radiator cap.
In some cases a lower temperature thermostat can reduce the operating temperature of the car. But, is this desireable? If the coolant starts to flow before the car has a chance to fully warm up, you delay its efficient operation. But, if you regularly subject the car to high heat stress a lower temperature thermostat will delay the onset of high coolant temperatures, but on its own may not reduce operating temps.
The only way to reliably reduce operating temperatures is to use a higher capacity radiator coupled with one or more of the items mentioned above. This may be necessary on FI cars, but hardly so in a moderatly stock normally aspirated S2000.
That's my 2p .
Here are some additional details:
The fan switch does turn on the fan at a lower temperature, however once the engine has reached thermal equilibrium with the cooling system, it has no effect on increased cooling. There are downsides to a lower temp fan switch in that it delays engine warm-up, increasing start-up emissions and decreasing engine efficiency.
A higher pressure radiator cap on its own also does nothing to improve cooling. The increased pressure that it can hold is only beneficial if you run low antifreeze concentrations or none at all. Water has a higher thermal transfer rate compared with antifreeze/water mixes, but 50% antifreeze/water coolant concentration is recommended in street-driven cars for its ability to depress the freezing point, increase the boiling point and provide lubrication and corrosion resistance to the cooling fluid. In a race car, antifreeze is a track hazard when spilled since it's much more slippery than water. Also, since track-driven vehicles undergo large heat stress, they need all the cooling capabilities that they can get. So, the increased pressure radiator caps allow racers to run water (usually with some other surfactant like Redline water wetter) without as high a risk of boiling the coolant [higher pressure also depresses the boiling point of a fluid].
When was the last time that you boiled the coolant out of the S2000? If this has never happened to you, there is no benefit from a higher pressure radiator cap.
In some cases a lower temperature thermostat can reduce the operating temperature of the car. But, is this desireable? If the coolant starts to flow before the car has a chance to fully warm up, you delay its efficient operation. But, if you regularly subject the car to high heat stress a lower temperature thermostat will delay the onset of high coolant temperatures, but on its own may not reduce operating temps.
The only way to reliably reduce operating temperatures is to use a higher capacity radiator coupled with one or more of the items mentioned above. This may be necessary on FI cars, but hardly so in a moderatly stock normally aspirated S2000.
That's my 2p .
You have got to love having Josh around.
I run with a 10% mix coolant to water and have all three mods as well as a hondata gasket. The hondata was the best mod out of all of them. I can sit my bare arse on the intake manifold now and it is barely hot. Don't ask me how I knom
I run with a 10% mix coolant to water and have all three mods as well as a hondata gasket. The hondata was the best mod out of all of them. I can sit my bare arse on the intake manifold now and it is barely hot. Don't ask me how I knom



