stupid question about...
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Charlotte
Just for the record, I'm not an expert either................
That's it, I'm not an expert!
BTW: Cleaning out my garage I found an extra Greddy Radiator cap (this is one of the mods they were talking about above), still new in packaging. Anybody want it?
1st one to post gets it! FREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!
Deiger
That's it, I'm not an expert!
BTW: Cleaning out my garage I found an extra Greddy Radiator cap (this is one of the mods they were talking about above), still new in packaging. Anybody want it?
1st one to post gets it! FREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!
Deiger
dammm
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From: South Florida
Originally Posted by CoralDoc,Aug 4 2004, 02:13 PM
bigpurp has expressed the right concept.
Here are some additional details:
The fan switch does turn on the fan at a lower temperature, however once the engine has reached thermal equilibrium with the cooling system, it has no effect on increased cooling. There are downsides to a lower temp fan switch in that it delays engine warm-up, increasing start-up emissions and decreasing engine efficiency.
A higher pressure radiator cap on its own also does nothing to improve cooling. The increased pressure that it can hold is only beneficial if you run low antifreeze concentrations or none at all. Water has a higher thermal transfer rate compared with antifreeze/water mixes, but 50% antifreeze/water coolant concentration is recommended in street-driven cars for its ability to depress the freezing point, increase the boiling point and provide lubrication and corrosion resistance to the cooling fluid. In a race car, antifreeze is a track hazard when spilled since it's much more slippery than water. Also, since track-driven vehicles undergo large heat stress, they need all the cooling capabilities that they can get. So, the increased pressure radiator caps allow racers to run water (usually with some other surfactant like Redline water wetter) without as high a risk of boiling the coolant [higher pressure also depresses the boiling point of a fluid].
When was the last time that you boiled the coolant out of the S2000? If this has never happened to you, there is no benefit from a higher pressure radiator cap.
In some cases a lower temperature thermostat can reduce the operating temperature of the car. But, is this desireable? If the coolant starts to flow before the car has a chance to fully warm up, you delay its efficient operation. But, if you regularly subject the car to high heat stress a lower temperature thermostat will delay the onset of high coolant temperatures, but on its own may not reduce operating temps.
The only way to reliably reduce operating temperatures is to use a higher capacity radiator coupled with one or more of the items mentioned above. This may be necessary on FI cars, but hardly so in a moderatly stock normally aspirated S2000.
That's my 2p
.
Here are some additional details:
The fan switch does turn on the fan at a lower temperature, however once the engine has reached thermal equilibrium with the cooling system, it has no effect on increased cooling. There are downsides to a lower temp fan switch in that it delays engine warm-up, increasing start-up emissions and decreasing engine efficiency.
A higher pressure radiator cap on its own also does nothing to improve cooling. The increased pressure that it can hold is only beneficial if you run low antifreeze concentrations or none at all. Water has a higher thermal transfer rate compared with antifreeze/water mixes, but 50% antifreeze/water coolant concentration is recommended in street-driven cars for its ability to depress the freezing point, increase the boiling point and provide lubrication and corrosion resistance to the cooling fluid. In a race car, antifreeze is a track hazard when spilled since it's much more slippery than water. Also, since track-driven vehicles undergo large heat stress, they need all the cooling capabilities that they can get. So, the increased pressure radiator caps allow racers to run water (usually with some other surfactant like Redline water wetter) without as high a risk of boiling the coolant [higher pressure also depresses the boiling point of a fluid].
When was the last time that you boiled the coolant out of the S2000? If this has never happened to you, there is no benefit from a higher pressure radiator cap.
In some cases a lower temperature thermostat can reduce the operating temperature of the car. But, is this desireable? If the coolant starts to flow before the car has a chance to fully warm up, you delay its efficient operation. But, if you regularly subject the car to high heat stress a lower temperature thermostat will delay the onset of high coolant temperatures, but on its own may not reduce operating temps.
The only way to reliably reduce operating temperatures is to use a higher capacity radiator coupled with one or more of the items mentioned above. This may be necessary on FI cars, but hardly so in a moderatly stock normally aspirated S2000.
That's my 2p
.
i was going to say something very similar right after i got my engineering degree (in my next life). 
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From: Land of the landeaus
Some points to make.
Ritchie is correct with his note of his Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket experience. It is probably the single best price/performance modification one can do to their Florida S2000. For a quick summation of why, I've linked to some of Hondata's easily digested info:
http://hondata.com/heatshield.html
The reason most people end up doing the fan switch and thermostat modifications (if they are doing the gasket) is simply out of convenience and ready access to the areas required for the former items to be installed. In of themselves, they do very little for noticeable performance gains because their primary benefits occur at speeds under 60 mph. When I began my drive from Vermont to Florida nearly a year ago, I left in temps of high 40's and arrived in mid 90's. It felt like my car had lost 20 horsepower. Every pull from a red light or stop sign was met with a horrible cough and gag and I found myself having to rev to 2500-3000K just to leave without hiccupping down US1. THIS is where your temp mods are going to show their teeth ESPECIALLY the intake manifold gasket. I have owned more than 20 sportscars over the years and have never had a car that suffered from heat soak as noticeably as my S2K. The F20C engine, while spectacularly engineered, is quite susceptible to the intense heat down here because afterall, it's a four banger putting out 240hp with little or no torque below VTEC. What little "oomph" you have off the line gingerly is going to be compromised by the 180-degree IAT entering your engine. According to Mugen, since the density of high temperature air is low, it causes to decrease the power output. For an example, if the induction air temperature rises more 3
Ritchie is correct with his note of his Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket experience. It is probably the single best price/performance modification one can do to their Florida S2000. For a quick summation of why, I've linked to some of Hondata's easily digested info:
http://hondata.com/heatshield.html
The reason most people end up doing the fan switch and thermostat modifications (if they are doing the gasket) is simply out of convenience and ready access to the areas required for the former items to be installed. In of themselves, they do very little for noticeable performance gains because their primary benefits occur at speeds under 60 mph. When I began my drive from Vermont to Florida nearly a year ago, I left in temps of high 40's and arrived in mid 90's. It felt like my car had lost 20 horsepower. Every pull from a red light or stop sign was met with a horrible cough and gag and I found myself having to rev to 2500-3000K just to leave without hiccupping down US1. THIS is where your temp mods are going to show their teeth ESPECIALLY the intake manifold gasket. I have owned more than 20 sportscars over the years and have never had a car that suffered from heat soak as noticeably as my S2K. The F20C engine, while spectacularly engineered, is quite susceptible to the intense heat down here because afterall, it's a four banger putting out 240hp with little or no torque below VTEC. What little "oomph" you have off the line gingerly is going to be compromised by the 180-degree IAT entering your engine. According to Mugen, since the density of high temperature air is low, it causes to decrease the power output. For an example, if the induction air temperature rises more 3
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: S.Florida
For what it's worth, I plan on installing my Hondata gasket, Mugen tstat, and fan switch in the next few weeks. Following that install, maybe a new goody or two.
I called Kingmotorsports to discuss the t-stat and fanswitch combo. I am taking the car to NC in october and wanted to make sure I wouldn't have any problems with the car in the cooler climate. I was told that it would be fine. the car might take a little more time to warm up, but the benefits while driving would far outweighed the warmup time.
Just waiting on my bling to do the hondata gasket
Mitch
I called Kingmotorsports to discuss the t-stat and fanswitch combo. I am taking the car to NC in october and wanted to make sure I wouldn't have any problems with the car in the cooler climate. I was told that it would be fine. the car might take a little more time to warm up, but the benefits while driving would far outweighed the warmup time.
Just waiting on my bling to do the hondata gasket
Mitch
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