Diff swap
07-25-2008, 08:45 AM
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Diff swap
Guys.... I forgot what part was necessary to swap diffs from ap1 to ap2.
I remember that you needed to switch the flange or something because it had a different size? I know many of you guys know... anyone?
I remember that you needed to switch the flange or something because it had a different size? I know many of you guys know... anyone?
07-25-2008, 01:01 PM
#3
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You need the flange which mates to the prop shaft. The prop shafts on the AP1 and AP2 have different mating flanges.
You can buy the flange at a dealer and while you are there get an entirely new set of hardware, both the hexcap bolts for the propshaft and the nuts and bolts for the half shafts. You don't want to reuse that hardware, especially the hexcap bolts. You'll likely bend or strip one or more getting them off.
It's not a hard job if you're mechanically inclined and can loosen and tighten nuts and bolts. You'll need an air-powered impact wrench, a 14mm wrench or two, a 10mm socket, ratchet, and extensions, 14mm socket and a 7mm? hex key socket.
The common method is to remove the half shafts but you don't really need to. The trick is to first remove the prop shaft and hang it out of the way with some wire. Then remove the nuts and bolts from the half shafts flanges. Next use a jack to support the pumpkin and remove the bolts holding it to the subframe. Push the pumpkin forward till the rear supports are clear of the subframe and then puth the diff to the left (or right) as far as you can . The opposite half shaft should come off. Repeat in the opposite direction to remove the other half shaft.
You'll also need to remove the rear subframe brace (vice grips may be needed to bend it back into shape) and you also unbolt and move the evaporator canister out of the way.
It will take about an hour to get the old one out and an hour and a half to get the new one back in if you do it by yourself. A helper will cut that time in half. You'll be thankful for the second pair of arms once yours go numb.
You can buy the flange at a dealer and while you are there get an entirely new set of hardware, both the hexcap bolts for the propshaft and the nuts and bolts for the half shafts. You don't want to reuse that hardware, especially the hexcap bolts. You'll likely bend or strip one or more getting them off.
It's not a hard job if you're mechanically inclined and can loosen and tighten nuts and bolts. You'll need an air-powered impact wrench, a 14mm wrench or two, a 10mm socket, ratchet, and extensions, 14mm socket and a 7mm? hex key socket.
The common method is to remove the half shafts but you don't really need to. The trick is to first remove the prop shaft and hang it out of the way with some wire. Then remove the nuts and bolts from the half shafts flanges. Next use a jack to support the pumpkin and remove the bolts holding it to the subframe. Push the pumpkin forward till the rear supports are clear of the subframe and then puth the diff to the left (or right) as far as you can . The opposite half shaft should come off. Repeat in the opposite direction to remove the other half shaft.
You'll also need to remove the rear subframe brace (vice grips may be needed to bend it back into shape) and you also unbolt and move the evaporator canister out of the way.
It will take about an hour to get the old one out and an hour and a half to get the new one back in if you do it by yourself. A helper will cut that time in half. You'll be thankful for the second pair of arms once yours go numb.
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