UPDATE: Knock Sensor Replaced/ Passed E test
Hey Guys.
I thought I'd try to ask the wonderful s2k community if anyone has a spare knock sensor or is willing to let me use one to pass an e test. Mines smashed up, and my temporary plate sticker is about to expire.
I am going turbo and was advised to do without one whilst being tuned on the aem ems. So running the dilemma of whether to buy one or borrow one if possible given my
Timely situation. (if anyone has a spare).
I can compensate in cash, parts, and friendship.
I thought I'd try to ask the wonderful s2k community if anyone has a spare knock sensor or is willing to let me use one to pass an e test. Mines smashed up, and my temporary plate sticker is about to expire.
I am going turbo and was advised to do without one whilst being tuned on the aem ems. So running the dilemma of whether to buy one or borrow one if possible given my
Timely situation. (if anyone has a spare).
I can compensate in cash, parts, and friendship.
A genuine knock sensor from Honda is 230$..
I'm actually going to order an American made one from eBay for 40$. But that's not my immediate concern - it's that I need an Etest quickly , alas needing a knock sensor quickly.
I'm actually going to order an American made one from eBay for 40$. But that's not my immediate concern - it's that I need an Etest quickly , alas needing a knock sensor quickly.
Honda's parts slogan:
"Don't be cheap, buy OEM"
That being said.. not really trying to be cheap here, rather cost effective. I am only needing it to not shit the bed until I get me emissions test done. So a couple drive cycles. Then as Nick mentioned, I will not even need it as I will be tuned without it on AEM when I go turbo. S2000, Turbo, and Cheap have no relationship potential. Just trying to save where I appropriately can. Although the aforementioned Guru did mention I will need it again when it comes to emissions time. Given the circumstances/scenario would you still buy an OEM unit for $263 to be exact? curious.
Having said that, I have found one used ..OEM.
Thanks Bizzare**
"Don't be cheap, buy OEM"
That being said.. not really trying to be cheap here, rather cost effective. I am only needing it to not shit the bed until I get me emissions test done. So a couple drive cycles. Then as Nick mentioned, I will not even need it as I will be tuned without it on AEM when I go turbo. S2000, Turbo, and Cheap have no relationship potential. Just trying to save where I appropriately can. Although the aforementioned Guru did mention I will need it again when it comes to emissions time. Given the circumstances/scenario would you still buy an OEM unit for $263 to be exact? curious.
Having said that, I have found one used ..OEM.
Thanks Bizzare**
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Just a quick Update - I replaced my knock sensor with a used OEM - compliments of Bizzare (thank you)! Took me a good hour, some fine motor finger Macgyvering, couple jack stands, and a 24 MM deep socket. Was happy I was able to do it myself and passed Etest shortly after. Im glad I didn't resort to any salty alternatives.
BUT I seem to be having an intermittent Drivability issue. One that was actually prevalent before the knock sensor install. But thought it was due to a potential limp mode affect. Seems as if it has been getting worse as well. Enough so that I am no longer driving until sorted.
Under moderate / hard acceleration the throttle suddenly cuts out at 4500-5000 RPM only - as if I quickly let off the clutch. Feels exactly like the cold rev limiter, but when my car is fully warmed up. This doesn't happen all the time, and is intermittent but often enough. And only around 4500-5000 rpm.
There are no codes being thrown either. On my last drive, I noticed even cruising in 4th gear that the car would hesitate here and there, as If i was running out of fuel ( although im not).
I have some ideas, but has this happened to anyone else?
Low fuel Pressure?
Injectors?
Vtec Solenoid?
Map Sensor ( Did the whack technique)
Adjusted TPS ?
Spark Plugs ?
Fuel Filter?
Pretty good air filter.
Oil level is good.
BUT I seem to be having an intermittent Drivability issue. One that was actually prevalent before the knock sensor install. But thought it was due to a potential limp mode affect. Seems as if it has been getting worse as well. Enough so that I am no longer driving until sorted.
Under moderate / hard acceleration the throttle suddenly cuts out at 4500-5000 RPM only - as if I quickly let off the clutch. Feels exactly like the cold rev limiter, but when my car is fully warmed up. This doesn't happen all the time, and is intermittent but often enough. And only around 4500-5000 rpm.
There are no codes being thrown either. On my last drive, I noticed even cruising in 4th gear that the car would hesitate here and there, as If i was running out of fuel ( although im not).
I have some ideas, but has this happened to anyone else?
Low fuel Pressure?
Injectors?
Vtec Solenoid?
Map Sensor ( Did the whack technique)
Adjusted TPS ?
Spark Plugs ?
Fuel Filter?
Pretty good air filter.
Oil level is good.
Rev limiter cuts fuel as I recall so I'd look at fuel issues first. It would help the experts to know what engine is in your car and what model year. Mods?
I ain't one of those guys but when my Ford Expedition shut off at highway speeds, came back, shut off, etc. and the dealer was puzzled I recalled it felt just like when the Honda hit the rev limiter. Yep, intermittent short in the fuel pump wiring from melted wires back there. Lots of other events can cause a fuel shortage too.
Good luck. These problems are especially annoying.
-- Chuck
I ain't one of those guys but when my Ford Expedition shut off at highway speeds, came back, shut off, etc. and the dealer was puzzled I recalled it felt just like when the Honda hit the rev limiter. Yep, intermittent short in the fuel pump wiring from melted wires back there. Lots of other events can cause a fuel shortage too.
Good luck. These problems are especially annoying.
-- Chuck










