Which viscosity do you guys use?
08-21-2002, 03:31 PM
#1
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Which viscosity do you guys use?
I've been lurking on this site for the past month or so... http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
These guys are hardcore when it comes to oil analysis and mechincal lubrication in general.. Don't go there.
So far from reading all the various analysis of 5w30, regular and synth, it seems that most 5w30 shear a lot easier than 10w30. Which means you are driving around with 5w20-25 in your engine which is not very good. So I switched to Mobil1 10w30. I'd suggest you guys could do the same, especially since none of you drive in the winter... Or at least I don't think so.
These guys are hardcore when it comes to oil analysis and mechincal lubrication in general.. Don't go there.
So far from reading all the various analysis of 5w30, regular and synth, it seems that most 5w30 shear a lot easier than 10w30. Which means you are driving around with 5w20-25 in your engine which is not very good. So I switched to Mobil1 10w30. I'd suggest you guys could do the same, especially since none of you drive in the winter... Or at least I don't think so.
08-21-2002, 04:04 PM
#3
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Californians should use 10w30. I use Mobil 1 Synthetic, excepts for the TSB on spark plugs I've had no engine problems for 40K. Only use 5w30 if you live in areas with 32 Degree F.
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08-21-2002, 04:28 PM
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Yeah, for engines that are built in small quantities to tight tolerances OEM synth should be fine. From the discussions on that board the consensus seems that you can switch soon.. I switched at 6K on my first oil change. I don't burn any excessive amounts.. 1L /5-6K.
08-21-2002, 04:58 PM
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I use Redline 10W40 RACE OIL, it's quite expensive, but made for cars like ours. Just before the winter (before I store it), I will probably put something cheaper like Motul 5W30 or 0W30 and go back to Redline before I start driving again next spring.
08-21-2002, 05:09 PM
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Make sure that particular Redline oil has enough additives for longer drain intervals.. I know that they have certain "race" oils that should only be used at the track and not for "regular" street driving.,
08-21-2002, 05:14 PM
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I thought the reason that is does not come with a synth from the factory is that synth is so slippery that it won't leave the proper residue behind and is actually not good for the car. Plus the first oil is supposed to clean up new engine wear that is inevitable until the car breaks in. BTW...I got lucky at the store the other day and found Castrol fully synthetic for $2.00 a bottle! Oh, and the Honda brand oil for s2000 is a semi synth (just fyi).
OH, question?! Is it recommended to use Slick 50, or other similar additive to the engine? It seems since the high revs this might be really usefull.
OH, question?! Is it recommended to use Slick 50, or other similar additive to the engine? It seems since the high revs this might be really usefull.
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08-21-2002, 05:16 PM
#8
I've driven mine for two winters. The first winter, the was brand new so I used what came with the car and topped off with same. Then I switched to Mobil 1 syn. @ 15,000 km. In summer, I use 10W30 and in winter I go to 5W30. I change every 5000 km or the start of winter (or the start of spring), whichever comes first. In winter I don't drive the car very hard so I'm not real concerned about what an oil site full of anal retentives might say. When it gets down to -35*C, I WANT 5W30 in there.
08-21-2002, 05:41 PM
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Do not use Slick 50. It's a marketing gimmick and doesn't work as advertised. PTFE (full name for Teflon ) does not work as advertised by these guys.
Also Castrol afaik does not make a group IV based synthetic oil like Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, Motul and Royal Purple. Their Syntec line is a group III based, hydrocracked "semi-synth" oil.
Also Castrol afaik does not make a group IV based synthetic oil like Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, Motul and Royal Purple. Their Syntec line is a group III based, hydrocracked "semi-synth" oil.