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Old Dec 28, 2009 | 11:42 PM
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ok guys i just recently purchased another s2000 i actually bought this one from the auction but the car was semi workin and now it has died it wants to turn on but doesnt start the crank doesnt move how can i check what happend to it?
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 04:32 AM
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Are you saying the starter engages and the engine turns, but wont start? Or are you saying the starter engages but the engine will not turn (like its frozen). If the crank isnt moving you either have a starter that isnt popping out to engage the flywheel, or you have a piston that has disintegrated and the rod has jammed itself into the piston wall. Or maybe if you're lucky it just ate most of the valve and got the piston stuck right before TDC. Usually it munches the valve up though.
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 05:45 AM
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need more indepth details on whats going on.
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 07:10 PM
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Yeah it engages but the engine doesnt start i keep on cranking it and it will not start up.. it kinda wants to start but doesnt start.. my dad was driving it from san antonio and then suddenly it just stopped on him.. before that he said he had little problems trying to start it ..


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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by s2korly,Dec 29 2009, 08:10 PM
Yeah it engages but the engine doesnt start i keep on cranking it and it will not start up.. it kinda wants to start but doesnt start.. my dad was driving it from san antonio and then suddenly it just stopped on him.. before that he said he had little problems trying to start it ..
Do you have a check engine light on? Could still be a number of things. Check fuel pressure. Check spark. Check to make sure it didnt break one of the chain guides or the tensioner and jump timing.
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 08:18 PM
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mm havent checked that out ... how can i check if one of the chain guides broke and tensioner i need to open it right?
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Old Dec 31, 2009 | 08:25 PM
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It could be a lot of things. If the car has an after maket alarm system with starter kill, it may have malfunctioned. I've had that happen before. Chased my tail for days before I figured I figured it out.
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Old Jan 1, 2010 | 03:23 AM
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first you need to see if you are getting voltage from the CKP any voltage amount will do seeing how it is a VRS type CKP you can locate the connector right behind the belt tensioner. then take a multimeter with ac voltage capability and run the leads one to each side of the connector (+ & -) if you get even a .8v while cranking you are getting good voltage (but the multimeter must be on ac volts it will not work on DC) if you are getting voltage then you need to check fuel supply and then spark (with out the CKP signal you wont get either seeing how that is what tells the PCM what cylinder is where). If you are getting fuel and spark then you need to run a leak-down & compression test. you also need to check voltage (the same way as the other) coming from both CMP (camshaft position sensor) I believe the one on the passenger side of the motor is the one that you need to worry about the most (if its an ap1). If by some weird chance all things check out then you need to see if it has jumped time (easiest way is to pull the valve cover and put cylinder 1 at tdc) Which with our vehicles it shouldn't happen often due to the tight fit design of the timing chain. If it has jumped then you are goin to be doing a rebuild. And if by some one in a million chance all those check out then (just maybe) the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) has gone bad. I know with our cars that if it goes out then it will cause a "crank no start" condition..

Hope this helps you out with the diagnosis portion... Let me know how everything goes and if you need anymore help..
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by xx_treva_xx,Jan 1 2010, 04:23 AM
first you need to see if you are getting voltage from the CKP any voltage amount will do seeing how it is a VRS type CKP you can locate the connector right behind the belt tensioner. then take a multimeter with ac voltage capability and run the leads one to each side of the connector (+ & -) if you get even a .8v you are getting good voltage (but the multimeter must be on ac volts it will not work on DC) if you are getting voltage then you need to check fuel supply and then spark (with out the CKP signal you wont get either seeing how that is what tells the PCM what cylinder is where). If you are getting fuel and spark then you need to run a leak-down & compression test. you also need to check voltage (the same way as the other) coming from both CMP (camshaft position sensor) I believe the one on the passenger side of the motor is the one that you need to worry about the most (if its an ap1). If by some weird chance all things check out then you need to see if it has jumped time (easiest way is to pull the valve cover and put cylinder 1 at tdc) Which with our vehicles it shouldn't happen often due to the tight fit design of the timing chain. If it has jumped then you are goin to be doing a rebuild. And if by some one in a million chance all those check out then (just maybe) the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) has gone bad. I know with our cars that if it goes out then it will cause a "crank no start" condition..

Hope this helps you out with the diagnosis portion... Let me know how everything goes and if you need anymore help..
thanks for the help after work today i will try working on it!! havent had a day off since last week i need to get this car running to sell already!!
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 11:04 AM
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no problem man i know this can be a frustrating thing to figure out. It happened to me about a year ago. mine turned out to be a droped vavle that just totally detroyed my engine..... but just follow those directions and you should be able to figure it out
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