Edited: I was wondering if anyone would be willing to help do the following:

ACT Clutch install (month or so)
Gauge install with SOS pod
Profec E-01 Install.
Fuel Pump install.

I could spring for dinner if you can make it out to help. Thanks!!

 

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...threadid=103349

this may help

I will also post my thread on the fuel pump and some other stuff.

I know these threads are for superchargers but some of the same stuff you are going to do I did.

fperra posted a clutch job in the NTX forum under his turbo install. You may want to check out his post.

 

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...threadid=135964

 

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...threadid=137868

 

I wish I could help you out, but I will be assisting with course set up the NTXS2000 auto-x on Sat.

 

The tap that you need if it is a 3/8 NPT type of fitting will have to be purchased at a ACE hardware store or if you find your self desperate, I can get it from my buddy that bought one for our install. You will also need a heavy duty grinding wheel and you want to tap the pan from the fron right corner of the pan if you are looking at it head on. OR it would be the driver side corner on the front. 1.25" down and grind the two fins that are there the fins need to be flush with the wall of the oil pan.

You also most likely will be taping the oil feed line from the oil sending unit, this is easy if you have the correct fittings. That is a direct factory tap right off the block.

I really hope you have all of the correct fittings, nuts, bolts and whatever.

When dropping the oil pan there are 2 large 14mm bolts that are used to hold the alternator braket and double for holding the oil pan, don't miss those. Be very careful when screwing each and everyone of the oil pan bolts back in. Honda service departments don't carry these in stock. Check the perimeter completely for all bolts, you'll miss some. Then you will have to break the seal on the oil pan, use the ply end of a hammer and there is tab located on the right hand side of the block that is perfect for plying the pan from the bottom of block, the seal will just *POP*.

When taking the factory header out, the car will need to be jacked up as far off the ground as possible. One heat sheild will give you some shit, but will not need to be taken off. You will drop the header from the bottom, no matter what you think, it will not come out through the top. Where gloves, the factory welding is like razor blades. The heat shield that protects the battery will have to come out, the last bolt towards the firewall of the car is a U cut hole, so the bolt just needs to be losened and then you can pull it right out.

Remeber to disconnect the battery completely, both + and -. Drain all fluids.

If you experience any diffcult tasks think them through and then post your problem here. I am sure one of us can help you through it on a phone call.

 

I have the drill bit and tap you need but won't be back in Dallas until next Saturday. I'm in Long Island right now and depart for Germany tomorrow morning. If you can wait until next Sunday, eMail me your directions and I will drop them off on Sunday. Address is fperra@comcast.net.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Turbo Wish
[B]I posted earlier, but thread got closed.

 

Hehe, I guess that's what happens when I get too lazy to type.
FMIC = Front Mount Intercooler I know you know why I need this
The kit I'm getting does come with a FMU, but I won't be installing that.
The larger fuel pump I thought would be needed since I'm going to be installing larger injectors. I wouldn't want to overload the factory fuel pump. Did you not use a aftermarket fuel pump with your 600 cc injectors fperra?

 

yes, I would agree upgrade the pump.