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1st I would like to keep this thread to me posting installation progess reports and tips for others that will be taking the same path in the futures but may be affraid. The installation progress that has been made is on another S owner's car and not my car. I am helping him out with his installation and then we will do the installation on my car over the weekend and most likely all of the first time through bugs will be worked out.
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So far oil pan dropped, the fins are shaved down, I would recommend a strong grinding bit. The hole has been drilled for the tap. We needed to buy a 3/8 tap, because it is not supplied. The supercharger has been mounted to the bracket with all of pulleys mounted and installed to the bracket. The oil return line and feeder line were also installed to the supercharger. The only pulley not installed is the crank pulley, we are going to take an impact wrench to the crank pulley tomorrow night, we hope this works. The Stock Air box is out and the Aftercooler with blow off valve is assembled.
4 hours of work was put into this tonight with a total of three people working on it, but about 6 hours of elapsed time went by. Some installation errors were made and had to be undone and corrected, a few are listed below.
1) So far the most time was put into the oil pan disassembly/preparation 2) supercharger bracket and pulley mounting hardware. There is a bolt, cap and washer supplied in the kit and they have no business being in the kit(although they are listed specifically in the instructions and diagrams supplied) this took about 45 minutes to figure out. Those three parts were put aside. We tried several of the bolts supplied with the kit and finally found the right one. We almost thought the wrong parts were supplied. Finding this mistake with in the kit will help others from making the same mistake. Mounting the oil lines into the supercharger before mounting the supercharger on to the bracket was also a step that was skipped and that cost us some time.
I have some detailed pictures that I will get from my friend Steve and I will post them over time. I will also take pictures of the cap, washer and bolt that is not used at this point at all, except for plugging the one oil line to keep the pre-lube from leaking out of the SC. The instructions will tell you to use the above bolt, cap and washer, but the bolt doesn't screw into the hole in the diagram and this could cause some one to force tap the bolt in and do some serious damage. So we through them away, no just kidding we still have them. That is really it for now. I will post more tomorrow night.
Final Product Installed and Running Scary Fast!
"L" Brackets from home depot that were painted flat black.
The only pulley not installed is the crank pulley, we are going to take an impact wrench to the crank pulley tomorrow night, we hope this works.
Please do not use an impact wrench on anything on the engine. In this case if you damage the threads on the crank you have one option - new crank.
Use a 1/2 inch drive six point (not 12 point) socket on a breaker bar (not a ratchet). Slide a long "cheater pipe" on the breaker bar to increase leverage. 4 feet long would not be unusual for a crank nut. Long bar lets you build up force carefully so you apply only as much as needed to break loose a stuck or high torque nut.
When you reinstall do it the same way, except use a torque wrench instead of the breaker bar.
Actually impact wrenches are a risky proposition for anything. The peak loads they generate can be way over failure limits. They are very effective thread strippers.
Have you acquired your your 181 ft-lb torque wrench yet?
Also I notice that illustration shows a socket and breaker bar for removal, and the last sentence of the page is "do not use an impact wrench." Nice to know Honda agrees with me.
And finally remember it's righty-tighty lefty-loosy. More than once I've pushed and shoved at a high torque bolt in a difficult location and finally realized I had gotten turned around and was trying to tighten.
Now that I see a picture of the the pulley holder, it's clear you will need two cheater pipes. One for the breaker bar and one for the holder.
the pulley holder is a $175 tool that you normally have to buy from honda for a one time use.
We ended up borrowing one from an import shop.
On a side note we called a local honda service tech and he said to thake the 19mm socket, breaker bar and pipe on the bolt and crank the engine over to break the nut loose, "they do it all the time".
yes, I have a 25-250 tq wrench.
If we get the electronics right the car will be running tonight.
Steve the owner took the day off and has done alot with the assistance of some one else today.
This is not a one man job.
I have taken photos removing the in tank fuel pump and I will post those when I get home with a small write up.
A little trial and error has taken place on install #1. We will start on my car Saturday morning. We should be done on Sunday.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by CMiS2K
On a side note we called a local honda service tech and he said to thake the 19mm socket, breaker bar and pipe on the bolt and crank the engine over to break the nut loose, "they do it all the time".
Well maybe he was pulling your leg. If not which shop? - so I can never go there.
Visions of the breaker bar tossing the mechanic then flailing the fenders and hood when the engine starts. Even with the ignition disabled the starter can spin it pretty fast.
I have heard about cranking the starter to loosen the bolt before, but it always makes me cringe thinking of what could go wrong. I also wonder if it would work on the F20C since the crank spins in the opposite direction of older Hondas. Are you sure the pulley nut is not reverse threaded?
It's not a reverse thread. We took it off the proper way. We have the supercharger in and the last step is the black box which will be tackled around 4pm today. I have a crap load of pictures to upload and several installation tips to give.
Installing the new fuel pump took a few minutes. Disconnecting the wiring in to the fuel pump from the outside was not necessary, we left it connected and disconnected the fuel pump from underneath the circular panel. We used the new filter that came with the pump, we just had to re-position the filter so that it wouldn't interfere with the fuel float. Let me tell you to make sure that the tank is almost empty when you do this. Working in tight areas with gas SUCKS! Do not have a full tank!!
Taking out the plastic tray took an hour to figure out. The instructions leave this to the imagination. There is a plastic strip located directly above the insert tray and it needs to be removed first in order to pull 4 more clip/snaps and then the plastic tray will drop right out.
07-22-2003, 12:05 AM
