I'm just in the process of changing my brake lines. Top bolt which attaches the old line to the pipe freed easily. Before I unbolt it entirely, any ideas on how the old line unattaches from the bracket? Sorry if this is asked numerous times but I'm only my mobile with a slow connection.

 

Worked it out. Had to pull out the retaining clip at the top of the bracket. Sorry for the pointless post!

 

Did you get them changed ok?

 

I'm about to do mine...what did you use to bleed the system as thats the biggest PITA from my point of view?

 

Gave up on mine. Got some HEL ones and they wouldn't fit the rear calliper properly (angled bend on the end of the braided hose was too tight an angle versus the one on the OEM one). Ended up braking old corroded end on the brake line so had to repair part of the line

Not worth the hassle. Just fit grooved/vented discs and better pads.

 

Bled the lines by firmly pressing the pedal a few times then opening and closing the bleed valve. New brake fluid is blue so nice and easy to see when the new stuff starts to come through. Not done the rears yet so will be interesting to see if I have the same problem with the angle of the bango bolt.

 

Although if that's a pita I hear the bleeding kits (that use tyre pressure) are really useful.

 

I've always used the good old 2 man method for donkeys years now, always works. Tried gravity bleeding and pressure bleeders and that lark but just don't find the pedal to be as good.

 

My HEL lines fitted ok, and the lines from the rear joint back to the proportioning valve is ok although the off side is a bit long and if i ordered again would be 2.7 metres and a 30 degress fitting for the prop valve end


Yep the 2 man or one man and wife method always works for me !

 

Always the 2 man option for me...but not in gay way! I leave that sort of shenanigans to the likes of MB and AJ

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2