Yeah, it's not going anywhere unless it's a garage now.

 

Its a shame really that you continued to drive it as you might of found you only had a seized slider and problem could of been fixed cheaply and easily. Now that the brake pads and disc are cooked you need to change at least.

- Both Front calipers £125
- Both Front discs £65
- Both sets of pads £80
- Brake fluid 1 litre £15

Changing just one side is pointless as you could end up with uneven braking so make sure you spend the money and get both left and right done. Just for future reference i had a caliper seize on the front and really stamping on the brake pedal hard to cause the ABS to come on caused it to free' itself off. Continuing to drive it with light brake pedal pressure wont release it.

My 2006 car's brakes were wrecked when i brought the car last year, calipers worn out front and rear and worn out discs. I think i done the whole lot for about £500

 

I had exactly the same problem on my front drivers side. The disc was glowing red hot, managed to get her home. Firstly, yes you will need new pads and discs, they'll be glazed over now and the disc will be worped. However, 30 min job, you can clean your caliper, make sure piston is working fine (which mine was). The issue I had was the sliding part of the calliper, so I pulled the piston like sliders on top of the caliper. Cleaned them up and puts lots on copper grease on them. I haven't had a issue since. Might be worth a try. Easy job

 

I did try feeing up the caliper myself, but I couldn't even get the wheel off! All the bolts came off fine but the wheel was seized on. Smacking, shaking and prying it did nothing but rock the car back and fourth on it's axel stand. So I gave up, then lost my locking wheel bolt key, but luckily there is a spare.

The car is a 2007 with 35k on the clock, so maybe i'm a bit unfortunate.

 

I've ordered a pair of the ebay calipers to check out how good they are - if not happy with them i'll just send them back.

Although from the sounds of it its worth checking if it's the sliders that are the problem? I thought on the S2k's it was the pistons which corroded? (as seen here; http://lh6.ggpht.com/_sb14GlBDX2I/Sv...0/DSC02058.JPG )

Sorry slight tangent, sounds like alot of heat in your brakes if the wheel has seized on and won't shift! Hope the wheel bearings etc are ok.

 

For stuck on wheels jack the car and remove the bolts, then sit on the floor facing the wheel and brace you back against something (like a wall) give it a good sharp kick with the flat of your foot on the tyre alternating between sides - it should free up eventually !

 

It'll be obvious if it's the slider - just take the caliper off and see if you can move them. I've had the sliders stick on one, but it's more often the pistons.

I just bashed my stuck wheels with a mallet. Or you could loosen the nuts and lower if off the jack, and if that doesn't work, drive the car for a couple of feet - but don't loosen the wheel nuts too much if you do that.

 

Is it okay to use copper grease on the sliders? I thought the type of grease used on them was water proof to stop water getting in? I've got a bucket of copper grease but no other lube on me - shall I just cake them in copper grease?

 

You should use proper brake grease that is rubber seal friendly. I bought a tub of it off ebay for a couple of quid.

 

Wheel is probably stuck on with rust. A decent garage would grease your nuts and the hub face to stop that.

I believe 'Millers Red Rubber Grease' is more ideal for the sliders and piston