Afternoon guys and Gals,

My first post so go easy on me!! I've been reading this excellent forum for a while now whilst researching my next car. Whilst i had originally decided to go for the BMWZ3M the running costs/vanos issues etc dont really justify the risk in real world driving. As such, i'm starting my hunt for an s2000. Test drove one on saturday and found it not unlike my Honda motorbike i've just sold. Would have liked more torque but love the fact it needs to be worked alittle.

Ideally i'm looking at an 01-02 model. Viewed a black on black 02 today but nothing like condition stated and too much paint/missing history to have peace of mind. Assume from my reading that hoods/clutch tend to be weak points (it had new clutch and hood at 42k ) How worrying/common is the seized geometry bolts??. Really want an enthusiast owned example in mint condition with low-average mileage, ideally in Monte Carlo blue or double black.

If anyones selling or knows of someone that is then please drop me a PM. I'm based near oxford but would travel for the right car and have the cash sorted so no part ex needed

Out of interest is an RAC inspection worth the money or best to take a prospective car to nearest Honda dealer and get them to check.

Thanks for any help

Cheers
Giles.

 

Keep an eye on the for sale board on here. Seen some lovely well looked after cars on there and you can also read through the members posts to see the history of any problems / mods to do with the car.

If you wanna get the car checked, get a DEKRA one done

 

My brother had an RAC/Dekra inspection done when he bought his '99 S2000 a couple of years ago and he said that the mechanic seemed to know about the car and did a thorough job.

I'm not sure whether dealers even do this kind of pre-purchase inspection, let alone what they would charge. Given some of the horror stories about ignorant dealers that have surfaced on here, I'm also not sure that I'd really assume that it is a better option than a Dekra inspection.

Good luck with the hunt!

(If you haven't already done so, check out the list of members' cars for sale, which is stuck at the top of the For Sale & Wanted forum)

 

I think the RAC - and maybe the AA too - actually sub-contract their checks on sports cars and more specialist vehicles to Dekra anyway

 

Thanks for the info guys. I'll probably buy privately if poss with an inspection to try and get as much car as poss for the money. Looked at s20004u on the web and they have a nice MCB 51 plate with 38k at

 

Suspension bushes ....

The car has a bit of a problem with these siezing which means the alignment cannot be adjusted. This can cost thousands to fix.

It looks like this could be more of a problem on cars that are not used on a regular basis (like mine)

Apart from that they seem to wear well.

Exhaust is stainless so should last for a long time. New hoods are in the region of

 

I would look at buying privately and leave the traders alone (if the car has full Honda service history - don't buy if you can't see the bills and don't trust the stamps in the book - you can buy extended warranty independently from a dealer if you want this). Cheaper and you'll probably get a better car direct from somebody that's looked after it.

The stock exhausts are stainless steel and should last for a good long time - people only seem to change them for more noise / fancy looking tail-pipes (you won't get any more noticeable power from an after market exhaust as the stock is pretty damn good).

Don't worry about the hood - just check there are no wear marks (look up the problem on here) on the one you buy. If you get a car with a hard top the hood will probably be in better condition anyway if the HT has been used in Winter (saves weather damage/ uesage wear).

As for the clutch, check there is no bearing noise/plate rattle when pulling away and try a "slip test" at about 30mph (dip the clutch, max the revs, then drop the clutch again and make sure the car accelerates with no clutch slip). If it passes these tests don't worry about the clutch.

As for siezed suspension adjustment bolts IMO these are only a problem if the geometry is way out of adjustment and which is unlikely to be the case. There are comments on this site about "Honda wouldn't pay as the geo was in spec" - so what's the problem? If you are unlucky and have an accident and the geo needs adjusting get the siezed bolts fixed as part of the insurance claim. Otherwise, don't worry about these.

IMO the main check is to ask the seller: "how often do you check the oil". If not regularly and the level isn't on the high mark then walk away (these engines can burn a lot of oil with hard use and running them with a low level can store up serious problems). Try asking a dealer if the last owner did this!

Just my 2p's worth and happy hunting

 

[QUOTE=mikdys,Feb 19 2007, 08:52 PM] As for siezed suspension adjustment bolts IMO these are only a problem if the geometry is way out of adjustment and which is unlikely to be the case.

 

I beg to differ - but I'm not planning on lowering my car or changin the geometry. You are always going to be able to adjust the wheel alignment (tracking) but how often is the camber, caster etc out so much that you notice any effect (not often I'll bet)?

 

When is the last time you had your alignment checked?

When I change tyres and the car starts to tramline I know it is time to get the alignment put back to spec.