CALLING ALL S2000 DIY MECHANICS!
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
CALLING ALL S2000 DIY MECHANICS!
Hi Guys,
As some of you know, Ive been having problems with my front calipers seizing intermittentley, but dont have the cash at the moment to buy new or reconditioned calipers.
Im no mechanic but would love to get stuck in and try and free the calipers off my self, so wondered If somebody would do me a step by step guide using pictures If possible, so that other owners can refer back to, as this seems to be a common problem with the S.
If not, Id welcome any help from people who live near me, and I could make a how to thread later on.
Any help would be greatley appreciated.
Regards
J_D
As some of you know, Ive been having problems with my front calipers seizing intermittentley, but dont have the cash at the moment to buy new or reconditioned calipers.
Im no mechanic but would love to get stuck in and try and free the calipers off my self, so wondered If somebody would do me a step by step guide using pictures If possible, so that other owners can refer back to, as this seems to be a common problem with the S.
If not, Id welcome any help from people who live near me, and I could make a how to thread later on.
Any help would be greatley appreciated.
Regards
J_D
#3
If they're repeatedly sticking, then the pistons are probably corroded.
They can be pumped out and it might be possible to resurface them with emery paper, clean & re-assemble them.
Too much emery, you might get fluid leaks.
If you're not a mechanic, I cannot recommend you try it alone.
They can be pumped out and it might be possible to resurface them with emery paper, clean & re-assemble them.
Too much emery, you might get fluid leaks.
If you're not a mechanic, I cannot recommend you try it alone.
#4
Registered User
Shame you didn't post this last night! I've just done my passanger side front caliper today!
1.) Remove wheel whilst car is jacked up.
2.) Remove the 2 (14mm?) bolts that hold the caliper in place. One at the top and one at the bottom. These keep the caliper attatched to the sliders.
3.) Support the caliper whilst it is off the sliders as you don't want to put strain on the brake hose.
4.) Using a flat blade screwdriver, place it in between the disc and the pad. Wiggle about so that the pad comes off the holders. Very easy.
5.) Repeat on other side of disc. Remember which the shims came from. Shims are just pieces of metal that are the same shape as the pads. They stick to the back of the pads.
6.) If replacing the pads then do this now. Copper grease them on the back to stop them squealing under breaking. Careful not to get any grease on the discs. If so, clean it off well.
7.) With the caliper supported, go and pump the brake pedal a few times. I peeled back the rubber seal that goes all the way around the piston. I then squirted some brake cleaner in there. Turn the caliper upside down so the brake cleaner comes out.
8.) Get a G-clamp and clamp it in the center of the piston and the back of the caliper. Wind it in. The piston will stop once fully in.
9.) Repeat steps 7 and 8.
10.) Wind in caliper all the way and put back in place. Put the 2 bolts through the caliper and into the sliders. Tighten up.
11.) Put wheel back on.
12.) Tighten the wheel nuts.
I've just done this today. I also fitted new pads as sometimes the piston will stick at a certain point of travel. By putting new pads in, I'm hoping it won't start to bite until the pads have worn down to the same place as the old pads.
Hope this helps!
Nick
PS - If I've forgotten anything, just tell me and I'll edit the first post to help others in the search!
1.) Remove wheel whilst car is jacked up.
2.) Remove the 2 (14mm?) bolts that hold the caliper in place. One at the top and one at the bottom. These keep the caliper attatched to the sliders.
3.) Support the caliper whilst it is off the sliders as you don't want to put strain on the brake hose.
4.) Using a flat blade screwdriver, place it in between the disc and the pad. Wiggle about so that the pad comes off the holders. Very easy.
5.) Repeat on other side of disc. Remember which the shims came from. Shims are just pieces of metal that are the same shape as the pads. They stick to the back of the pads.
6.) If replacing the pads then do this now. Copper grease them on the back to stop them squealing under breaking. Careful not to get any grease on the discs. If so, clean it off well.
7.) With the caliper supported, go and pump the brake pedal a few times. I peeled back the rubber seal that goes all the way around the piston. I then squirted some brake cleaner in there. Turn the caliper upside down so the brake cleaner comes out.
8.) Get a G-clamp and clamp it in the center of the piston and the back of the caliper. Wind it in. The piston will stop once fully in.
9.) Repeat steps 7 and 8.
10.) Wind in caliper all the way and put back in place. Put the 2 bolts through the caliper and into the sliders. Tighten up.
11.) Put wheel back on.
12.) Tighten the wheel nuts.
I've just done this today. I also fitted new pads as sometimes the piston will stick at a certain point of travel. By putting new pads in, I'm hoping it won't start to bite until the pads have worn down to the same place as the old pads.
Hope this helps!
Nick
PS - If I've forgotten anything, just tell me and I'll edit the first post to help others in the search!
#5
Originally Posted by Itchy Dick,Feb 2 2008, 07:27 PM
8.) Get a G-clamp and clamp it in the center of the piston and the back of the caliper. Wind it in. The piston will stop once fully in.
#6
Registered User
Thanks, yes, rear calipers screw in. This is to do with the handbrake mechanism. You have to turn and push at the same time. My rears wouldn't even turn!! Had to take it to a garage which had the correct tools to do the job!
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thats fantastic itchy, thank you very much, you make it sound very easy.
Ive got a full socket set, but can you elaberate on what a G clamp is??? Sorry for being dim.
Ive got a full socket set, but can you elaberate on what a G clamp is??? Sorry for being dim.