Car stalls intermittently, and cannot hold an idle
11-10-2005, 12:40 AM
#1
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Car stalls intermittently, and cannot hold an idle
I'm just about to book the car in as it's been playing up lately. The car stalls intermittently as it fails to maintain an idle more often than not. The engine light has come on, and today the clutch makes a squidgy sound when I press the pedal in, and I've got a bit of a vibration on it (but it's very very mild).
The car runs fine when it's rolling, but is notchy going into 2nd/1st at low speeds.
So what's the bets, engine throwing a tantrum cos the clutch is dragging excesively and about to combust?
The car runs fine when it's rolling, but is notchy going into 2nd/1st at low speeds.
So what's the bets, engine throwing a tantrum cos the clutch is dragging excesively and about to combust?
Sounds like it will cost a bit 
11-10-2005, 02:34 AM
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Originally Posted by simonprelude,Nov 10 2005, 11:12 AM
MAP / TPS sensor ??
I have one of each in my tool box !!
I have one of each in my tool box !!
11-10-2005, 03:14 AM
#6
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As Simon says, they are the primary cluprits for bad idle.
TPS lives on the throttle body
MAP lives on the inlet pipe near the manifold - follow the tube out from the air box.
My dealer did diagnostics free- thats a total rip off IMO.
MB
TPS lives on the throttle body
MAP lives on the inlet pipe near the manifold - follow the tube out from the air box.
My dealer did diagnostics free- thats a total rip off IMO.
MB
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11-10-2005, 03:39 AM
#9
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Its a little tricky to test them without going to the ECU as you cant get onto the connections to get a signal 
Both are 0-5v min to max in terms of their output.
There is a way of checking the ECU fault codes by connecting 2 wires under the dash - very easy. Do a search and you should find out how. If you can do that and get the fault code, it will save you money and me / another may be able to diagnose it.
It may be that your cable is a little slack and sending a very low signal to the ECU. Its 0-5v and normal closed is about 0.4v and 4.8 at fully open. Maybe try nipping it up a little.
Other thing you could do is after you start the car from warm - if the idle is bad - unplug the MAP (dont drive with it unplugged tho!) it may give you another fault code but if the car cuts out the sensor is probably healthy.
Im a little reluctant advising that as the dealer will spot the code and want to give you a new MAP at
Both are 0-5v min to max in terms of their output.
There is a way of checking the ECU fault codes by connecting 2 wires under the dash - very easy. Do a search and you should find out how. If you can do that and get the fault code, it will save you money and me / another may be able to diagnose it.
It may be that your cable is a little slack and sending a very low signal to the ECU. Its 0-5v and normal closed is about 0.4v and 4.8 at fully open. Maybe try nipping it up a little.
Other thing you could do is after you start the car from warm - if the idle is bad - unplug the MAP (dont drive with it unplugged tho!) it may give you another fault code but if the car cuts out the sensor is probably healthy.
Im a little reluctant advising that as the dealer will spot the code and want to give you a new MAP at