Central locking woes
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Central locking woes
I'm having central locking issues on my '02 fitted with h&p alarm/immob system.
When arming the alarm, both doors will lock as normal via remote/central locking and there is the normal 4 flashes on the indicators. When I disarm the alarm I get the long flash on the indicators but that's it, nothing to unlock the doors. This alone would suggest to me it's an alarm issue but... When I go to unlock the doors with the key, I can only unlock the door that I have the key in, no central locking on either lock or unlock via the key.
I've stripped both doors out and removed both of the white locking actuators which seem to check out fine. If I put 12v to one of the pins with an earth connected to the other the motor throws the arm, and throws it back the other way when i swap power and earth to the other pins. Also the drivers side actuator is sending power to the central locking relay under the dash but I'm not sure if it's getting to the passenger door?
Does this still suggest an alarm fault or do I have central locking gremlins elsewhere?
When arming the alarm, both doors will lock as normal via remote/central locking and there is the normal 4 flashes on the indicators. When I disarm the alarm I get the long flash on the indicators but that's it, nothing to unlock the doors. This alone would suggest to me it's an alarm issue but... When I go to unlock the doors with the key, I can only unlock the door that I have the key in, no central locking on either lock or unlock via the key.
I've stripped both doors out and removed both of the white locking actuators which seem to check out fine. If I put 12v to one of the pins with an earth connected to the other the motor throws the arm, and throws it back the other way when i swap power and earth to the other pins. Also the drivers side actuator is sending power to the central locking relay under the dash but I'm not sure if it's getting to the passenger door?
Does this still suggest an alarm fault or do I have central locking gremlins elsewhere?
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
Update. I've got both the actuators fitted and connected but I'm sure something isn't quite right. When I push the lock button on the inside of the door I get a 12v pulse through the uppermost pin on the connector with the purple wires, I get the same 12v pulse through the same pin when I unlock. Should this not change to the lower pin for unlock?
#3
i would be interested to know what the solution to this is. The central locking on my 2000 S doesn't work either. the microswitch under the raised button is missing so doesnt work anyway but the microswitch under the indented button is still there and un-immobilises the car to allow me to start it but does not operate the central locking. I just have the H&P alarm aswell.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
I spoke to Jim at H&P this morning and he's sent me over a wiring diagram to go with the door lock actuator tests i already have from the Honda workshop manual. I'll be checking out the wiring and associated parts etc over the next day or two and then i'll hopefully have a solution
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Think I've traced the fault back to as faulty central locking actuator. Continuity readings are all to cock on the position switch so I think it's confusing the system.
This seems to be twinned with a sick central locking controller for the h&p alarm.
I'm going to replace the actuator and see where I end up. Going to try and fix the controller or bin the useless h&p alarm all together!
This seems to be twinned with a sick central locking controller for the h&p alarm.
I'm going to replace the actuator and see where I end up. Going to try and fix the controller or bin the useless h&p alarm all together!
#7
I thought this thread might obviate the need for a new actuator. It's an Acura RL (Leg End) but TADTS:
Repair your actuator
Repair your actuator
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#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
I thought this thread might obviate the need for a new actuator. It's an Acura RL (Leg End) but TADTS:
Repair your actuator
Repair your actuator
#9
RHD door in a UK car or LHD door in a USA car - only one actuator is 'smart' the passenger side is always dumb.
They're cheap as chips new from the USA if you can find a dealer to send you one
I think mine was about 25 bucks!!
They're cheap as chips new from the USA if you can find a dealer to send you one
I think mine was about 25 bucks!!
#10
Yeah; can the US dealer get a wrong-handed one though?
I've found that is a problem with Acura NSX clutch masters - the bolt flange is handed!
Can you get the microswitch from somewhere online?
I've found that is a problem with Acura NSX clutch masters - the bolt flange is handed!
Can you get the microswitch from somewhere online?