UK & Ireland S2000 Community Discussions related to the S2000, its ownership and enthusiasm for it in the UK and Ireland. Including FAQs, and technical questions.

Clutch Slave + Master

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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 12:01 PM
  #11  
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There's only three bolts to remove. Two secure the slave to the side of the gearbox, the other secures the banjo bolt holding the hose on.

The slave is on the N/S of the gearbox IIRC.

I fitted a Goodridge Brake Hose from an MX5 whilst I was at it too...don't know why, but thought why not?!

HTH
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 12:12 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by loftust,Apr 20 2009, 08:01 PM
There's only three bolts to remove. Two secure the slave to the side of the gearbox, the other secures the banjo bolt holding the hose on.

The slave is on the N/S of the gearbox IIRC.

I fitted a Goodridge Brake Hose from an MX5 whilst I was at it too...don't know why, but thought why not?!

HTH


It's easy once you get under there.
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 12:13 PM
  #13  
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Excellent, have looked up a few pictures now and am feeling fairly confident.

Any benefit to doing the hose upgrade at the same time? Doubt it from mine and the wifes level of driving.
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 01:37 PM
  #14  
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From: Plymouth
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Hose upgrade pointless, there is little load / pressure unlike with the brake pipes.
Dont lose the copper / alloy sealing washers from the banjo bolt, you can reuse.
Grease the ball end before refitting, with HMP grease, if its dried up.
You can easily bleed the fluid yourself.
The clutch pedal will naturally stay down on the floor so you can get back under the car and nip the bleed nipple up.
Only takes a couple of full pedal cycles to remove the air.
Reservior is TINY, and only fill to the line once finished.
So, bleed once, then recheck or you can empty it in a few strokes.

Steve.
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 11:38 PM
  #15  
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I think I got two new banjo washers from HTG included.

So it was undo the fluid bolt (easier when it';s bolted to the g'box) then undo the two mounts. Pop the new one on, and re-do the bolts (make sure the ball sits in the socket of the release fork - you'll see what I mean when it's in your hand) then new washers and fluid bolt up tight.

Then it's the re-bleed. It doesn't need to be special fluid, it doesn't heat up like the brakes. You can use either DOT4 or DOT5.1 (they are compatable - it's DOT 5.0 that isn't).

Dont let the level in the res level drop to the bottom, as it'll let air in the line and you have to start again.

It's easy with two people.

nipple closed
clutch down (it'll stay down)
nipple open (fluid/air will rush out)
nipple closed
clutch up
clutch down

repeat until the clutch pedal firsms up to it's usual resistance.

As you can see, it's easier if someone is sat in the car and another under it.

Every 3 or 4 cycles check the res.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 11:59 AM
  #16  
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Cheers guys all this info is priceless, part ordered from the ebay link as I need to get the car sorted ASAP. Spoke to Jeff (HTG) and he said it would be 5 days to our customs so could be 5 -10 days to get to me and I want the car fit for the weekend so went for the ebay.

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