I always used a little bit of copper grease in the durally bolts to prevent this.
That is going to be a PITA to remove
I feel for you

 

what are the chances of heating the crap out of the stud and then giving the nut a whack with a flat screw driver / hammer to shock the nut loose? Or is what remains really as soft as butter

 

Nut splitter?

Or as UF says, and use a punch on one side to beat it round. You may have to drill a small pilot hole to get the punch into it.

 

Aluminium might crack if you an get enoug heat into it to change the crystaline structure but its unlikely. plus you'll melt all the paint on the alloy in the process.

ITs a nice soft metal, so if you can split enough of it and then drive a screwdriver between it you might be able to crack it that way and almost tear the bolt apart.

ally doesn't like being bent without heat. if you cold forge it and just bend a strip of it over a former it will usually tear at the rear.

if you split one side, it should be enough to loosen its grip and then you might beable to twist it off. if not your going to need to try and do the other side of it and split the whole thing in half.

This process does put your alloy at risk. you may end up scuffing the insode ofthesocket hole if the screw driver jumps.

 

actually the safest bet would be to drill out the wheel stud

Drill a 3mm hole as close to the center of the stud as possible. Then move up to a 6/7mm, then a 10mm. Be careful not to drill into the wheel. Chisel out the remaining parts, then remove the wheel, pop out the remainder of the stud, and install a new stud and nut.

 

I'd sooner butcher the nut off, and if you don't get away with damaging the stud then you can replace it too.

 

It's probably cheaper butchering off the nut, and having the wheel refurbed if you damage it, than getting a garage to replace a front stud (assuming the OP can't do it himself).

Chris.

 

I've recently heard that Copper-Ease CAN actually cause electrolytic corrosion between alloy & steel.

Bit worrying, since I've done the NSX's bushes...

 

Not sure if there is enough material left but Irwins Bolt Grip may be an option:-

Irwins

Found these to be invaluable when dealing with rounded nuts and bolts while restoring my old 91 CRX, the more you tighten them the more they bite in!

 

They should do the job, the question is, is there enough metal left to bite into