I now have a UK engine in my JDM, and I can't tell any difference. So if there is a difference it must be coming from my JDM ECU and is nothing to do with the engine.

 

or building one with the fine detail and tolerances

then you know you have arrived

 

I agree; the alleged 99.9% of internet info being BS includes the received wisdom about Wiki being BS!

It's not always reliable, but a lot of the technical stuff IS plagiarised from reliable sources.

Indeed, since the age of the internet, a lot of motoring folklore repeated by respected writers has been debunked, for example.

 

I said wikipedia, not everything i agree but a fair bit. I didn't say the whole internet

back to topic please

P.S. Do you come to Stevenage leisure park much, think i've seen your car there a few times

 

It's not just the extra 10 BHP and a wee bit more torque that make JDMs superior. They are lighter, have wheels that don't turn the rust when you look at them, and have spent less of their life driving over salt/grit.

HG renewals aren't that difficult on the S, but IIWU (If I were You), save your money for a SC, Turbo, better suspension, geo setups etc. I cannot tell the difference between a JDM or UKDM S, despite the difference in engine output either.

You don't HAVE to get the head skimmed when renewing, but you do have to get a machinist to check the surface is perfectly flat to ensure a good fit...trust me, I've changed over 15 HGs in two years

HTH (Hope this Helps)

 

I only want to know this for future referance, i would obviously do a head gasket change when i do head work. I want to keep my car N/A, not interested in turbo/ supercharger in the S

Glad u translated shorthand by the way, I hate text talk because I've got no idea what any of it means.

 

Not text talk, just acronyms and other common abbreviations

Another N/A dreamer hey?!

Once you price it all up for the power you get, you'll be looking at a supercharger

 

I have priced it up comprehensively, obviosuly not going to be able to get it all done but hopefully the majority over the next 3 or so years.

 

You can get resonable gains n/a if you can get the best/top end parts for a good price 2nd hand, if brand new its very expensive for 20-25bhp gains.

 

Sorry for going a bit offtopic here.

Loftust why have you changed over 15 Gaskets in 2 years? Is your proffesion related or changed them on your car(s) for a very strange reason ?

When i wrote that you have to get it machined/skimmed (new word application here, yummy ) i was taking as a fact the reason for changing the head gasket, was a damaged headgasket itself.

Usually a damaged headgasket requires some work on the header to be done in order to get it polished, flat and ready for the new one. Isnt that statement correct? (i am talking about generalities here and not exceptions) I was under the impression it was

Also, when - for somewhat reason - you decide to have some head work done, its a good time (regarding cost) to change a head gasket with an after market one.

Finally, i agree with the others. I wouldnt pay for a change in the head gasket alone (since labour is so expensive) but save the money for use in something else.

As Hypersonik said "Another N/A dreamer". Its sweet but its not cost efficient.

Kostas