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Engine swap advice

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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 09:08 AM
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Default Engine swap advice

I have been doing some searching and all I can find out is about the clutch fork, so forgive me if I have managed to miss a fitting guide!


Basically, I have my new engine, and will be fitting it asap, I have done various engine swaps and I work for VW so I am very lucky to have a full workshop at my disposal, but I want to ask a bit of advise.

My car is a UK, but has a JDM engine in, to which I am fitting another JDM engine.


My 'new' engine is fully dressed:






And as you can see it's still on it's subframe.

I will be re-using my gearbox.


So guys:

What is the best way - out the bottom or through the top?

Should I put the whole lot in on the subframe?

Is there anything I should be looking out for while doing it?

Any special tools needed?



Any help is very much appreciated!
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 09:19 AM
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Have a look at these threads which answer most of your questions and have pictures too

https://www.s2ki.com/...engine-removal/

https://www.s2ki.com/...rogress-thread/

https://www.s2ki.com/...the-transplant/
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 10:57 AM
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I searched for ages and I found the one from Adz (which is my car! lol) but missed the other ones - Fail on my part, thanks once again mate!!


So if I have read this right, the best way is to drop the engine out from below on the subframe complete with gearbox, then split the box off when on the ground?

Does the subframe carry anything else? Steering rack etc? I have never looked under mine yet!

Would you guys recommend leaving the new engine on the subframe and bolt it back up on that?
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 12:01 PM
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I took mine out of the top of the engine bay as I didn't have a lift but did have a crane...

If I was doing it again i'd drop it out Beetle/porsche style. I.e. unbolt the engine and lift the car off it. That engine was never meant to come out of the top as best as I can see!

Leave it on the subframe and drop the whole lot out with the gearbox on. Pretty sure that's the way it's installed (explains the stupidly long subframe bolts anway!).

Didn't need any special tools but if your lower wishbones are siezed you will have to cut them out (the bushes that is). If they are free i'd just un bolt the lower inner wishbones and pop it out the bottom.

Hope that helps.

Nic
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 05:28 AM
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Brilliant, thanks Nic!

Sounds like (as long as the wishbone bolts are not siezed in) it shouldn't be too bad, i'm guessing the gearstick is bolted in from the top somehow?

I think that looks to definately be the way to go, out on the subframe from underneath
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 09:29 AM
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Three bolts under the centre console.

Ensure the subframe is the same as yours (16" or 17") as (IIRC) they have different numbers and there is more bracing on the 17"s.

Like the wishbones, the difference is really hard to see.
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 11:41 AM
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Hmmm, didn't realise the subframes are different, so on is an inch bigger Nick?

Where abouts is the diffrence? Worst case i'll just swap the subframes, at least it's not exactly held on the engine by much
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 12:05 PM
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I don't think anyone's actually found out.

Honda went on about 'more bracing' and I think it's simply the suspension geo. that was slightly revised for the 17" cars. Whether they moved the pick-up points a fraction (I think if you overlay the before & after arms, they're ever so slightly different) but it's a bit of a guess.

Sorry that's not really factual (I detest that sort of crap!) but I think I'd err on the side of caution.
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 12:27 PM
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The rack does bolt to the Subframe but just undo the bolts and tie the rack to the crossmember.If you got the facility to lift the engine up from below I would bolt the engine and box together and lift the whole lot from underneath.

I fitted the engine and box from above but its hard work.Apart from the box Crosmember/mount the are 4 6 mm bolts that fasten the Rubber gaiter to the tunnel. Make sure you unclip the speedo drive,reverse light sender and clutch slave hose, then it should just drop out. The prop bolts can be a bit of a pain.Oh! and take the gear knob off....... And don't forget the clutch fork
Good luck
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Old Dec 17, 2012 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick Graves
I don't think anyone's actually found out.

Honda went on about 'more bracing' and I think it's simply the suspension geo. that was slightly revised for the 17" cars. Whether they moved the pick-up points a fraction (I think if you overlay the before & after arms, they're ever so slightly different) but it's a bit of a guess.

Sorry that's not really factual (I detest that sort of crap!) but I think I'd err on the side of caution.

Thanks mate, I will keep an eye out!
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