Faulty? Power steering
04-23-2019, 06:08 AM
#1
Faulty? Power steering
So me and a friend bought an S that had been in an accident; it had a fairly bad front whack which resulted in a bumper, subframe, steering rack and aforementioned gubbins being replaced. I was dreading getting the subframe out (shagged bolts) but it was all gunned out without a sweat. We finished it up over the weekend however the power steering isnt working. Sticking the scan tool on it brings up DTC14 for the power steering (open or short to body ground in the torque sensor circuit) as well as errors for both airbags and seat belt tensioners which I suspect are part of one system. I've tried to reset the power steering system following this:
However the EPS sensor does not go off in step (7) and continuous to blink. Ideas? Barring this; car drives wonderfully and the chasis didnt even require being put on a jig :-)
1. Align your wheels so they're facing straight.
2. Short the SCS circuit as per the linked guide above.
3. Turn the steering wheel 45 degrees to the left from the straight ahead position, and hold it in that position.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (III). The EPS indicator comes on, then it goes off after 4 seconds.
5. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator goes off, return the steering wheel to the straight ahead driving position and release the steering wheel. The EPS indicator will come on again 4 seconds after releasing the steering wheel.
5. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator comes on, turn the steering wheel to the left45 degree position and hold the steering wheel. The EPS indicator will turn off again after 4 seconds.
6. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator goes off, return the steering wheel to the straight ahead driving position and release the steering wheel. Do not move the steering wheel before turning the ignition switch OFF.
NOTE: If the steering wheel is moved, the torque sensor neutral position cannot be written to memory.
7. The EPS indicator blinks twice 4 seconds after releasing the steering wheel, then it blinks three times 5 seconds after. Then, the indicator goes off. The torque sensor neutral position is memorized.
NOTE: If the EPS indicator stays on, there was an error in wrting the torque sensor neutral position to memory. Repeat the procedure from the start.
8. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
9. Disconnect the SCS short.
2. Short the SCS circuit as per the linked guide above.
3. Turn the steering wheel 45 degrees to the left from the straight ahead position, and hold it in that position.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (III). The EPS indicator comes on, then it goes off after 4 seconds.
5. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator goes off, return the steering wheel to the straight ahead driving position and release the steering wheel. The EPS indicator will come on again 4 seconds after releasing the steering wheel.
5. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator comes on, turn the steering wheel to the left45 degree position and hold the steering wheel. The EPS indicator will turn off again after 4 seconds.
6. Within 4 seconds after the EPS indicator goes off, return the steering wheel to the straight ahead driving position and release the steering wheel. Do not move the steering wheel before turning the ignition switch OFF.
NOTE: If the steering wheel is moved, the torque sensor neutral position cannot be written to memory.
7. The EPS indicator blinks twice 4 seconds after releasing the steering wheel, then it blinks three times 5 seconds after. Then, the indicator goes off. The torque sensor neutral position is memorized.
NOTE: If the EPS indicator stays on, there was an error in wrting the torque sensor neutral position to memory. Repeat the procedure from the start.
8. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
9. Disconnect the SCS short.
04-23-2019, 07:45 AM
#2
Do you think that the wiring to the rack has been damaged in the shunt? Theres a chunky 2 or 3 pin connector from memory on the rack that might have been damaged perhaps? I may start with obtaining a 2nd hand EPS loom and going from there...
04-24-2019, 04:44 AM
#3
There's two connectors that go on the rack; one onto the steering motor itself and the other (smaller) plug onto the torque sensor. I doubt there's an issue with the cable and the shunt wasnt bad enough; we only replaced the entire steering rack because it was only a little bit more to buying one tie rod. (the only bit that was damaged on the old steering rack)
I should probably get a continuity test on the EPS to see if its an issue with the loom?
I should probably get a continuity test on the EPS to see if its an issue with the loom?
04-24-2019, 04:55 AM
#4
Can you plug in the old rack again(without actually refitting it) to retest the wiring? Or maybe just swop over the damaged arm and refit the original rack?
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