I'm just wondering, they are obviously a set height by design, but how can that be a 'one size fits all' because people lower their cars by different amounts. So wouldn't a really low car have a different steering angle than one that is only marginally lowered, thereby needing a different size spacer?

Before I take the plunge and spend over a ton on two blocks of aluminium, I was wondering if it's possible to make some adjustable ones, to give a perfect angle based on your own lowering requirements?

Or is it unnecessary?

 

I've often wondered this. I have a set waiting to go on that look about 3mm thinner than the t1r's. Does that make a difference?

 

I imagine the lower the car is, the thicker the rack spacer needs to be.

I suppose you could use thin bits of alu and work out how many pieces you need to stack up for how low you are. Although, this will probably make the spacer pretty weak.

If you manage to get any made I may be interested in a set

 

Well there is a chap who is doing such things at the moment, custom machined ones that is, not adjustable as far as I know.

I just can't work out why the ruddy things are so expensive from T1R etc, and as such; I begrudge paying it.

My idea of adjustability was to use the bolt thread for height changes and then locked off using nuts etc, but my concern would of course be the lateral strength of the bolts and the stability of the rack

 

On the other hand if you were going to keep it at 1 height you couls work out how thick the spacer needs to be by working it out from a ratio. (But it probably won't be 100% but better than an out of the packet job)

If we could find out how thick some of the others are (T1r, spoon etc) and what ride height they were designed for we will get a ratio and work out what thickness we need for our cars? If we could get the info that would be a better way to do it in my opinion

 

Does the spacer not need to be there to bring the Geo adjustment back into the range of the adjusters?

Why do you need adjustable spacers?

 

Steering rack spacers are needed to stop bump steer, what you are aiming for is the trac rod arms to be at the same angle after lowering as they were before lowering (this should be parallel to floor with the car at rest).
Don't use bolts they won't support the rack enough, shims should be ok but if you know the shape a local machine shop should be able to knock out a set for decent money.
In theory if you drop the car by 30mm you need 30mm spacers under the rack to bring the steering arms back to design geometry, if you think about it the steering arm connection at the wheel has not altered but the rack has dropped by the amount the car is lowered so lifting the rack puts it back into it's original position.

 

I would agree.
And indeed they are very simple blocks but mist be machined very accurately or you risk twisting the rack or worse.

What nobody has mentioned is the limitations of the height of the blocks.
You are limited by the extra length bolts required, and the access available to slide the long bolts in.
Take a look and all will become clear - you bolt direct into the subframe IIRC.

So if fabbing your own (I would buy a pair and get a machinist to copy them) do not go taller than the T1R - they were about the limit for access.
Also GET THE RIGHT GRADE OF BOLTS. This is the critical bit - you dont want them failing.


As for height then I wouldn't get hung up on it.
If you are lowering 10mm, don't waste your time.
If going 20-30+ then they do help to make a difference to the active geometry.
HTH

Steve

 

Good points all.

How does this affect the UJ between the rack and the column?

 

It's on a spline or clamps so you just slacken it off and allow it to sit where it adjusts to, I suppose it might make the angle a bit more acute but I doubt it will make the steering notchy