Geometry setup help
Originally Posted by Daytona-Dave
As MB say's the GEO settings although out are not enough to give you any pull under power on and off, I'd be looking else where first, sticking brake, Tyre's, shocker, compliance bush, quick check look at the colour of your disc edge's to see if one is a different shade to the others,
What I have noticed is I can hold a steady acceleration, no matter how fast, and there isn't any pulling. When I push down on the accelerator the car pulls so take foot off the accelerator and pulls the other way. If I was to coast along with no acceleration the car keeps straight....
Originally Posted by Daytona-Dave
As MB say's the GEO settings although out are not enough to give you any pull under power on and off, I'd be looking else where first, sticking brake, Tyre's, shocker, compliance bush, quick check look at the colour of your disc edge's to see if one is a different shade to the others,
What I have noticed is I can hold a steady acceleration, no matter how fast, and there isn't any pulling. When I push down on the accelerator the car pulls so take foot off the accelerator and pulls the other way. If I was to coast along with no acceleration the car keeps straight....
Originally Posted by Daytona-Dave
Your GEO is out but not Miles out, your caster angles are low but fairly symmetrical, non will give you the symptoms you have unless they have strained a bush to try and get the readings, if you had a broken suspension component it should have being spotted when doing the GEO as that should be checked before any settings are done
Originally Posted by Daytona-Dave
Your GEO is out but not Miles out, your caster angles are low but fairly symmetrical, non will give you the symptoms you have unless they have strained a bush to try and get the readings, if you had a broken suspension component it should have being spotted when doing the GEO as that should be checked before any settings are done
Agree with Dave / Ray, your setting are far from miles out and shouldn't give the issues you are seeing. Assuming your tyre pressures are bang on, you have a calliper issue.
Ive had exactly the same on braking / accelerating, and its very unpleasant.
Ive had exactly the same on braking / accelerating, and its very unpleasant.
Originally Posted by Daytona-Dave
Check your rear brakes aren't sticking, and your check your caster bushes when they wear the lower arm moves rearwards and gives you a low caster angle plus allows the arm to float about more so I'd put a tad of toe in on the front to compensate , I mentioned tyres as Ang's did the same when it had two different makes on
Originally Posted by MB
Agree with Dave / Ray, your setting are far from miles out and shouldn't give the issues you are seeing. Assuming your tyre pressures are bang on, you have a calliper issue.
Ive had exactly the same on braking / accelerating, and its very unpleasant.
Ive had exactly the same on braking / accelerating, and its very unpleasant.
The only times I've had those similar symptoms, it has been either one rear tyre worn more than the other (roundabout fun!) or pressures slightly uneven. If it's not those, then it's probably a binding brake, as cited by others here. Go for a drive (motorway if you can - fast and not much braking), if one wheel is warmer than the rest, it's sticking. You might also notice it when you come to a rolling stop and it doesn't stop smoothly (ie there's a little 'sticky' jolt as you pull up with no brakes on).
Originally Posted by WinFreak
Have a feel if one of the wheels is hotter than the others after you've been for a drive, that'll tell you if there's a sticky caliper..









