High oil consumption
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 13,786
Likes: 1,536
From: Chesterfield VA
Valve clearance check/adjustment is every 105,000 miles so I'd not depend on a dealer to prompt anyone. A tedious job as well.
A note for the 2006+ cars with the Maintenance Minder (do all markets have this?) states to only adjust them if they're noisy during A, B, 1, 2, 3 services. I've never had the Maintenance Minder display anything but I imagine that like most here my car gets serviced long before mandatory services are necessary. Also the valves tighten in service and only loose valves are noisy.
The 2006+ AP2 engines can be overly tight. If you've got a spare morning check the valves. Engine needs to be cold (under 100°F).
https://robrobinette.com/S2000ValveAdjust.htm
-- Chuck
A note for the 2006+ cars with the Maintenance Minder (do all markets have this?) states to only adjust them if they're noisy during A, B, 1, 2, 3 services. I've never had the Maintenance Minder display anything but I imagine that like most here my car gets serviced long before mandatory services are necessary. Also the valves tighten in service and only loose valves are noisy.
105,000 mi/168,000 km
6 Speed Manual - Recommended service:
Check tires inflation and condition
Replace spark plugs
Inspect valve clearance, otherwise adjust only if noisy
Inspect idle speed
6 Speed Manual - Recommended service:
Check tires inflation and condition
Replace spark plugs
Inspect valve clearance, otherwise adjust only if noisy
Inspect idle speed
https://robrobinette.com/S2000ValveAdjust.htm
-- Chuck
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,099
Likes: 273
From: In the land of pies and pasties
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-und...060900/page34/
Not a post to worry anybody, and it's a long read. Suddenly there's panic with some of the USA guys when Billman speaks - merely his advice is to check em early!
Essentially, ignore the service manual and check them at around 40k IMO, then it's unlikely you'll need to until the car approaches 100k. BTW Chuck chimed in many times in that thread
and they definitely tighten from mileage
My last s2000 was an 06 DBW, which I acquired with 79,000miles on it or thereabouts. It was a very quiet engine. When I sold it with about 114k on it, I never got round to sorting the clearances as they had been done at 50k from it's history with a receipt for it.
However the engine was that quiet when I sold it, it didn't even sound like it was switched on. Like an EV! To the OP - you definitely don't want that, and in truth the valves would have been very tight risking an exhaust valve burn. I mentioned to the new owner it was time to adjust them (overdue in fact).
Hope this helps .
Not a post to worry anybody, and it's a long read. Suddenly there's panic with some of the USA guys when Billman speaks - merely his advice is to check em early!
Essentially, ignore the service manual and check them at around 40k IMO, then it's unlikely you'll need to until the car approaches 100k. BTW Chuck chimed in many times in that thread
and they definitely tighten from mileageMy last s2000 was an 06 DBW, which I acquired with 79,000miles on it or thereabouts. It was a very quiet engine. When I sold it with about 114k on it, I never got round to sorting the clearances as they had been done at 50k from it's history with a receipt for it.
However the engine was that quiet when I sold it, it didn't even sound like it was switched on. Like an EV! To the OP - you definitely don't want that, and in truth the valves would have been very tight risking an exhaust valve burn. I mentioned to the new owner it was time to adjust them (overdue in fact).
Hope this helps .
Last edited by s2k4tony; Dec 17, 2025 at 11:00 PM.
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 13,786
Likes: 1,536
From: Chesterfield VA
Here's the link to Bill's original post back in 2013, 13 years ago! 400ish messages in the thread. I'm sure there are more notes on the topic but the need to check the clearances on the DBW cars remains unchallenged.
Enjoy!
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...2A%2A-1060900/
-- Chuck
Enjoy!
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...2A%2A-1060900/
-- Chuck
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If it is not blowing blue smoke when on it hard and not leaking, I honestly would not worry about it. S2k is definitely a car that you check the oil on every fillup.
On the pic of the wet exhaust tip, are you sure that is not just condensation (did you just start the car and turn it off before taking that) ? Condensation mixed with a little soot in the exhaust tip could look like that.
I would not go by one set of drives and checking the oil. See what it is doing consistently. If previous owner did a ton of short drives, idling, etc during the selling process there could be some moisture buildup that burned off when you went out and started driving it. Not 800mL worth but could be contributing some to this. So I would keep driving it and monitoring it.
One thing I do not do is changing oil viscosity because "it burns less oil". You want the correct viscosity for the design of the engine. There is room to move around a little with the viscosity so a slight change is not hurting anything, but I wont do it just chasing less oil usage. Let the engine lubricate the way it is designed to, if it uses some oil, keep it topped off.
Still good to check the PCV and replace it as needed of course. That is part of maintaining the car and maybe it is contributing a bit here.
On the pic of the wet exhaust tip, are you sure that is not just condensation (did you just start the car and turn it off before taking that) ? Condensation mixed with a little soot in the exhaust tip could look like that.
I would not go by one set of drives and checking the oil. See what it is doing consistently. If previous owner did a ton of short drives, idling, etc during the selling process there could be some moisture buildup that burned off when you went out and started driving it. Not 800mL worth but could be contributing some to this. So I would keep driving it and monitoring it.
One thing I do not do is changing oil viscosity because "it burns less oil". You want the correct viscosity for the design of the engine. There is room to move around a little with the viscosity so a slight change is not hurting anything, but I wont do it just chasing less oil usage. Let the engine lubricate the way it is designed to, if it uses some oil, keep it topped off.
Still good to check the PCV and replace it as needed of course. That is part of maintaining the car and maybe it is contributing a bit here.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2023
Posts: 15
Likes: 2
From: England
If it is not blowing blue smoke when on it hard and not leaking, I honestly would not worry about it. S2k is definitely a car that you check the oil on every fillup.
On the pic of the wet exhaust tip, are you sure that is not just condensation (did you just start the car and turn it off before taking that) ? Condensation mixed with a little soot in the exhaust tip could look like that.
I would not go by one set of drives and checking the oil. See what it is doing consistently. If previous owner did a ton of short drives, idling, etc during the selling process there could be some moisture buildup that burned off when you went out and started driving it. Not 800mL worth but could be contributing some to this. So I would keep driving it and monitoring it.
One thing I do not do is changing oil viscosity because "it burns less oil". You want the correct viscosity for the design of the engine. There is room to move around a little with the viscosity so a slight change is not hurting anything, but I wont do it just chasing less oil usage. Let the engine lubricate the way it is designed to, if it uses some oil, keep it topped off.
Still good to check the PCV and replace it as needed of course. That is part of maintaining the car and maybe it is contributing a bit here.
On the pic of the wet exhaust tip, are you sure that is not just condensation (did you just start the car and turn it off before taking that) ? Condensation mixed with a little soot in the exhaust tip could look like that.
I would not go by one set of drives and checking the oil. See what it is doing consistently. If previous owner did a ton of short drives, idling, etc during the selling process there could be some moisture buildup that burned off when you went out and started driving it. Not 800mL worth but could be contributing some to this. So I would keep driving it and monitoring it.
One thing I do not do is changing oil viscosity because "it burns less oil". You want the correct viscosity for the design of the engine. There is room to move around a little with the viscosity so a slight change is not hurting anything, but I wont do it just chasing less oil usage. Let the engine lubricate the way it is designed to, if it uses some oil, keep it topped off.
Still good to check the PCV and replace it as needed of course. That is part of maintaining the car and maybe it is contributing a bit here.
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 13,786
Likes: 1,536
From: Chesterfield VA
Water vapor is a byproduct of combustion so expect some to condense in a cold exhaust system and drip out this time of year. I occasionally see little puddles below the exhaust tips of outdoor parked cars started and left idling to "warm up." Remote start is almost standard in current cars and 50°F is COLD here in Virginia. Heck they close the schools if 1/2" of snow is predicted!
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2023
Posts: 15
Likes: 2
From: England
Quick update,
since having changed the pcv valve and oil service I have had minimal consumption in the past 250 miles or so. Not sure what helped the most but I’m glad my consumption/loss has shot down!
On Saturday I’m installing an uprated mishimoto rad and a new A/C condenser as the fins on both were shot. Hopefully aircon will work after being regassed
since having changed the pcv valve and oil service I have had minimal consumption in the past 250 miles or so. Not sure what helped the most but I’m glad my consumption/loss has shot down!
On Saturday I’m installing an uprated mishimoto rad and a new A/C condenser as the fins on both were shot. Hopefully aircon will work after being regassed
Last edited by antapro; Jan 21, 2026 at 02:38 AM.
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 13,786
Likes: 1,536
From: Chesterfield VA
I was wondering if it was normal that I top off pretty often
Here's what @Billman250 has to write about this topic. I'll link to one of the times he mentions it.
Proper oil level is right in the middle of the xxxxx.
Those who run their oil at the H (high) will constantly burn off the top two diamonds due to crankshaft windage.
The burn rate of the remaining 3 diamonds will be much slower. You will also eliminate smoke on track.
So many guys wasting their efforts with catch cans and oil types. Right in the middle is where it belongs.
__________________
Those who run their oil at the H (high) will constantly burn off the top two diamonds due to crankshaft windage.
The burn rate of the remaining 3 diamonds will be much slower. You will also eliminate smoke on track.
So many guys wasting their efforts with catch cans and oil types. Right in the middle is where it belongs.
__________________
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...l-oil-1208410/
Checking the oil level every fuel-up is still recommended. Next time you're down those 2 Xs just make a note and see what it is next time. Don't add oil unless it's at or below the L mark. Your log of this will (1) indicate if you're really using oil -- remember the top 2 Xs don't count -- and (2) how much at what interval.
-- Chuck
