[QUOTE=NineBolts,Feb 11 2009, 10:51 PM]

 

There's not much variation in the driving though is there? Sitting at 4000rpm for a few hours isn't gonna do it.

 

Sounds eminently sensible in the main.

But I don't, however, quite get the bit High revs only really serves to increase piston ring speeds, when these aren't bedded in you can work harden the peaks which means they will never bed in properly Can you clarify please?

RON

 

I broke my car in according to the book. I wasn't taking any chances by revving the ass off it immediately.

Had the oil changed at Honda when it hit 1000 miles!

She's been sweet as a nut since and the gearbox is really loosening up nicely now!

 

Thanks for the reply. What oil did Honda put in at 1000 miles? 10-30W Mineral with Moly +ive or 5-40W fully synthetic?

Cheers,

RON

 

Honda Factory fill is a 0W-20 with high Moly. This is purely for fuel economy and the engine doesn't need Moly. It certainly doesnt assist in the bedding in process and it won't need replacing.

Moly is pretty good at sticking to metal so you wont need to worry about adding more as it will remain after the oil is drained. I know this as it's a bastid to get off an engine when we are doing back to back oil tests. We have special cleaning oils we use to remove it.

Work hardened means the metal gets harder and therefore even harder to bed in (in this case the rings). It's only really happens at extremes though.

 

[QUOTE=Si2k,Feb 12 2009, 09:55 AM] Honda Factory fill is a 0W-20 with high Moly.

 

[QUOTE=Si2k,Feb 12 2009, 06:55 PM]Honda Factory fill is a 0W-20 with high Moly.

 

The factory fill is likely to be Group III base oil, this is classed as synthetic in every country other than poland and germany(edit)

I wouldn't get too hung up on the base oil used though.

For top up most 5W-30 will be fine, avoid any that claim fully synthetic. Hopefully you won't use much though.

Then you can move to a 5W-30 or 5W-40 of your choice at the first service.

Remind me again, what happened to cause a new engine to be fitted? Is it brand new?

 

Here is Accrolites running in guide for a new engine build when using their forged pistons, ignore the bit about turbo: (I installed them in an engine I built in a previous car)

Guidelines For Running In Your New Built Turbo Engine

(1) Initial Start Up
Once you have established good oil pressure from cranking the engine
it can then be started.
Note: A good quality running-in oil should be used and fully synthetic oil
should never be used when running-in an engine.
It is important that the engine is not left idling from its initial start, and it
is important to get the engine under load as soon as possible.
(2) Initial Road Test
Road test the vehicle avoiding any prolonged idling.
As soon as possible select a gear, usually fourth gear, and slow the
vehicle to a suitable speed where full throttle can be applied without
instant gaining of revs. Hold this full throttle position for around 8 to 10
seconds but avoid severe pinking. If pinking is evident speed is too
slow or ignition timing is too advanced. If revs pick up instantly the
vehicle speed is too high or the gear selected is too low. During this 8
to 10 seconds of full throttle operation, vehicle speed and revs should
gradually increase from around 50% to 100%. For example from
30mph in fourth gear to 50mph in fourth gear would indicate
approximately the correct conditions.
A rest period of at least twice the time spent at full throttle should now
be taken. The rest period means the throttle should be reduced to
around a quarter throttle for at least 20 seconds. This rest period allows
the temperature of the compression rings to normalise.
The same loading and resting procedure has to be carried out at least
10 times during the initial road test, but not necessarily one after the
other. Abort run-in procedure if temperature or oil pressure is
abnormal. Recommence after rectification.


(3) First 300 miles (This can be passed on to your customers)