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How best to run new engine in (again....)

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Old 05-14-2009, 08:16 AM
  #31  
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Just to add to the confusion.....

My dealer told me mine was filled with fully synthetic Mobil 1 0W 30 from the factory.
Old 05-14-2009, 11:49 AM
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Agree with ninja.

To add to it I spend thousands on engine test at work, however if the oil is tested in a 'crap' engine you will get a failing result even with the best oil in the world. I mean crap as it one where the tolerances are all against you.

You can repeat the test on another engine and then get a flying pass on an identical oil.

Ah the joys of Engine oil development
Old 05-14-2009, 12:47 PM
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Did you ever the 100ml's of engine oil to test Si2k.?
Old 05-15-2009, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Si2k,May 14 2009, 07:49 PM
Agree with ninja.

To add to it I spend thousands on engine test at work, however if the oil is tested in a 'crap' engine you will get a failing result even with the best oil in the world. I mean crap as it one where the tolerances are all against you.

You can repeat the test on another engine and then get a flying pass on an identical oil.

Ah the joys of Engine oil development
Agreed, you get an engine where the ring chamfers and end gaps are slightly on the high side of the tolerance and you've an engine that vents blowby gas, drinks oil and degrades the oil like you wouldn't believe.
Old 05-16-2009, 07:06 AM
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I have now got the first 200 miles post-rebuild done on the V8, with the first oil change done. My running in plan is as follows:

Build completed using rebuild lube, camlube on cam/followers/valve gear. Pump primed with vaseline (its a V8 thing) and then oil system primed with a drill prior to cranking. fill with 20w50 fully mineral oil.

Initial start with "basic" ignition/mixture settings then striaght up to 2000-2500 revs for 20 mins to ensure good wear-in of cam and followers.

0-50 miles at >2500 revs, only 1/2 throttle and not allowing the engine to labour. then change oil for same again.

50-500 miles as before, but with a better state of tune, 10 degrees advance, and a leaner mixture. occasional excursions to 3000 rpm. then change oil.

500-3000 miles, raising rev limit by 1000 rpm per 1000 miles to 4500 rpm and gradually using more throttle, then change oil.

3000 onwards, up to the full limit of 6000rpm and full throttle.

given that I have a 3,000 mile annual limit on my insurance, you can tell that I have a long year ahead of me.

Rover V8s have massively long running in period, with frequent oil changes reflecting their agricultural nature. Although mine has only just reached 200 miles, it has already loosened up markedly and is becoming more and more sporty as we go. I now need to negotiate time off from housework in order to go and rack up some more miles!

As for the S2000, I'd go with the 1-2-3 method above. The critical period is the build and the first 50 miles. After this, it's just a long old slog.
Old 05-16-2009, 08:31 AM
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Unfortunately for most us the first 50 miles is probably done by the delivery drive and road test at pdi before we even see the car, and not too carefully by a rushed shuttle driver.
I seem to remember that some manufacturers(toyota springs to mind) had a procedure to reset the odometer to zero, one time only though, so that even a delivery distance of cross country could be reset.?
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