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Interesting airbox...

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Old 11-10-2007, 12:21 AM
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What about making a duct in the under tray at the front and running some piping up past the arb to the filter?

Obviously might not be that good in floods but could work quite well?
Old 11-10-2007, 12:45 AM
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It prob would Redun - that was along the lines I was thinking. (as long as you dont mean below the height of the bumper)

This is an interesting post - read half way down. Looke very like Biker1's setup.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...c=308430&st=25
Old 11-10-2007, 01:12 AM
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The problem with going to the bottom is the underside of the car is slightly negative pressure so the hot air is actually being drawn from the engine bay out under the car, I had a modified OEM box feeding from here but it did not feel right.
if you made a small scoop in the undertaray it would force air in but this low down you pick a lot of crap up thrown up from the cars in front.
I think if you put the filter in line and boxed it then fed it with a larger dia pipe to behind the faux grill on the passenger side you may have best of both worlds.
buy some 3"plastic drain pipe and play around with different lengths you could run without filter for a few runs without any damage I think samco do connecting sleaves to fix it to the TB
Old 11-10-2007, 01:20 AM
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That's the solution for me.

You could probably modify the wing vents to fit some tubing - just using he fitment of the vents to make it look neat. Wouldn't be much lft of them mind!
Old 11-10-2007, 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MB,Nov 10 2007, 02:20 AM
That's the solution for me.

You could probably modify the wing vents to fit some tubing - just using he fitment of the vents to make it look neat. Wouldn't be much lft of them mind!
I was thinking something like this.
Old 11-10-2007, 05:03 AM
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Good link, an interesting read.

What the consensus/views on keeping the stock airbox, doing the airbox gutting (dividor, block drain hole etc) but...

Keeping the stock air guide/shield, and cutting to allow for a snorkle.

For me the Stock airbox is good, but doing this could improve it.
Old 11-10-2007, 05:05 AM
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On the link posted, the picture half way down.

Has the guy cut the lefthand side of the airbox and added a C A feed to it?, to draw air from the hole to the side of the left headlamp??

I take it the silver lining/matting is heatshielding??

cheers
Old 11-10-2007, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Ajs_s2k,Nov 10 2007, 06:05 AM
On the link posted, the picture half way down.

Has the guy cut the lefthand side of the airbox and added a C A feed to it?, to draw air from the hole to the side of the left headlamp??

I take it the silver lining/matting is heatshielding??

cheers
I have had several options to the OEM box
op 1 using 2 60 mm pipes one to the side of the rad and the other low down near the anti roll bar

2nd this one kept good air temp but suffered from heat soak in standing traffic, i cured it to some extent with a heat sheild

current one is a work in progress and yes the silver is to stop heat transfer


I altered the snorkel because its restrictive at its narrow point
Old 11-10-2007, 05:52 AM
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Nice work oxhouser.

Yes i have always thought that snorkle was very restictive at the point where it bends just over the where the bonnet meets the strut.

Why cut the snorkle in the second attempt?, doesnt the snorkle collect colder air and it reduces the Pressure drop of the incoming air.

Regarding the restrictive point on the snorkle, you could take the top side off just cover it thinly and thin the bottom out?

Im thinking of:

a) Doing heatshielding like yourself
b) Reducing the restrictive part on a snorkle
c) Collecting air and feeding from the left headlamp to the lefthand side of the airbox.
d) Gutting airbox
e) Retain airguide above rad.

^ what do you think?

Cheers

Aj
Old 11-10-2007, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Ajs_s2k,Nov 10 2007, 06:52 AM
Nice work oxhouser.

Yes i have always thought that snorkle was very restictive at the point where it bends just over the where the bonnet meets the strut.

Why cut the snorkle in the second attempt?, doesnt the snorkle collect colder air and it reduces the Pressure drop of the incoming air.

Regarding the restrictive point on the snorkle, you could take the top side off just cover it thinly and thin the bottom out?

Im thinking of:

a) Doing heatshielding like yourself
b) Reducing the restrictive part on a snorkle
c) Collecting air and feeding from the left headlamp to the lefthand side of the airbox.
d) Gutting airbox
e) Retain airguide above rad.

^ what do you think?

Cheers

Aj
If you can get a second feed between the rad and the inner wing you don't need to touch the snorkel as any restriction is overcome by the second feed. I used 60mm drain pipe and warmed the end up to fish tail it (a bit like a vacuum cleaner tool but bigger) that way it can fit forward of the rad. I would deffinately keep the rad plate as this helps keep the area in front of the rad high pressure.
I bought a roll of adheisive heat reflecting tape from some rally supply shop on the web its cheap and works, i used 1 layer on the bottom half then buble wrap then a top layer to clean it up, if you take your time you can work the tape into all the ribs on the top cover so it looks like standard only silver, the lace up sleeve for the rubber tube came from the US.
I also removed the resonator box and blocked the hole up, it improves the sound and reduces weight nothing more
To be honest don't expect any big gains all you are doing is slightly improving a very good design.


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