johnsy_20

hi everyone. icurrently own a 99 s2k (uk) and have been having trouble with the kangarooing, misfire, and uneven idle for a long time now.. i searched and searched and finally figured out it was a lambda sensor. So i took it to a garage and got the sensors both checked and turns out the lambda sensor that goes into the cat was screwed but never showed a cel... so i thought thank god il get a new sensor and my problems will be over.....so i went and bought a universal sensor and my mechanic wired it up for me..drove it a couple of mile and it threw a cel and started behaving again. my mechanic said it might be a faulty sensor so i brought it back and bought another one...brilliant i drove it home (about ten miles) and it was perfect, FINALLY!! then all of a sudden i feel this kangarooing and when i stopped the uneven idle was back but no CEL. i was really getting impatient at this stage so i decided to just go and buy a sensor off my honda garage maybe the universal ones are just no good. I collected my sensor and plugged it in when i got home....it lasted all of ten minutes..now iam really pissed and am down a good bit of money and cannot seem to find anyone who has any idea whats wrong, including the honda techs!!!!! will someone please shed some light for me the car has 93k miles and has just had valve guides on cylinder 4 replaced (two of them were worn and lost compression) about 1k miles ago. the compression is all fine i have no vaccuum leaks its well serviced and has no mods watsoever.

C&S Evo7

you need to check cylinder leakdown not compression, compression won't show a sticky valve or worn guide that well
what exhaust do you have?
do you actually have a cat?

simonprelude

The secondary O2 sensor has no input on the engine running, it purely serves to let you know if the CAT is working.

Have you had the car on the diagnostics machine, I would do that now before attempting any further self diagnosis (or non Honda work).

johnsy_20

wat would the diagnotics do? and yesi have a cat. as far as iknow everytime i put the newsensor inthe car runs perfect for a few mins so it must have some input

Kiwi-S2000

I have had a similar problem, in the past, where the car wouldn't idle probably up & down like a bastard, it would cutting out at lights sometimes for no reason.

I did 3 things in one night, that seem to of sorted it

1. Changed spark plugs (4 new ones)
2. Took out the inlet sensor and give it a real good clean, with a rag
3. Unplugged the temp sensor on the back of the engine and re-plugged it in

After doing this, I haven't had an issue again

I don't think it is your lambda sensor, IMHO

Kiwi

pistonbroke

Try resetting the ECU to see if the car behaves again for 10 minutes. It may be that the ECU is getting reset every time a new sensor is fitted, then the values its learning along the way are causing the issue.

Good advice to get a diagnostic check done, it may be the MAF sensor, CPS sensor or TPS sensor.

My hunch is the MAF though.

TTS Performance

no MAF sensor on the car, it has a MAP sensor though, but they don't usually play up. I would give the Idle control valve a good clean, it could be sticking. I had poor idle and that was the problem.

johnsy_20

maf or map??

motogp1

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/U380-OBD-2-II-EOBD-O...%3A1|240%3A1318

MB

The S2000 has a MAP sensor.

But back to your problem. A universal lambda sensor is fine, as long as the correct one was installed and wired up correctly.

Can I ask how the first one was diagnosed as being faulty?

How do you know the ones you have replaced are actually blown? You need to measure the voltage from them when the car is warmed up to correctly diagnose if the sensor is blown / damaged.

Also, as Simon says, the secondary lambda (the one in the cat) has no effect on how the car runs. The one in the manifold, closer to the engine, monitors and adjusts the fuelling.

I would suggest you get the error code from the CEL, and post it up.

We can help from there.