mods?
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From: WaterlooVtec
Originally Posted by MB,Nov 30 2008, 10:01 AM
I think you are getting far far too hung up on the numbers.
JDM versus UK spec is discussed loads, so try a search on that one.
If you want to try it again, go for these:
http://www.dyno.com.au/dyno/controll...or/showDealers
Wokka - was that the IT or AT? Intake temp will obviously shoot up a lot, and S2000's do not like dyno's...
JDM versus UK spec is discussed loads, so try a search on that one.
If you want to try it again, go for these:
http://www.dyno.com.au/dyno/controll...or/showDealers
Wokka - was that the IT or AT? Intake temp will obviously shoot up a lot, and S2000's do not like dyno's...
DaveB and I have very similar mods with very similar peak power figures. I have noticed though that certain combinations of parts can make or break the S2000 - certain manufacturers aim at different results from the engine. Having an exhaust set-up aimed at mid-range and intake set-up aimed at top end, can cause significant problems it seems.
I've found that J's and Toda products are aimed at producing more top end, peak powered engines whereas the Mugen and Spoon kind of companies aim at the mid-range. Depends on your driving style as to which direction you'd go IMHO.
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From: Sheffield South Yorkshire
Reducing the weight of your car makes a big difference, take out the spare wheel, tools, girlfriend etc , then cross performance mods with weight in mind also, for example I have a spoon single, gained around 7bhp but also lost 18kg in weight.
The S is "NOT" a slow car, it just needs derestricting If you know what I mean. Once you have a lightweight free flowing exhaust, decat, and manifold and CAI, it changes the way the car accelerates, and drives, even without an ecu. I can vouch for this as I had a drag race with a supra twin turbo after my mods and we were side by side, the guy asked me If Id turbo'd mine, which I said no, he was gutted
Remember power to weight is the key.
The S is "NOT" a slow car, it just needs derestricting If you know what I mean. Once you have a lightweight free flowing exhaust, decat, and manifold and CAI, it changes the way the car accelerates, and drives, even without an ecu. I can vouch for this as I had a drag race with a supra twin turbo after my mods and we were side by side, the guy asked me If Id turbo'd mine, which I said no, he was gutted
Remember power to weight is the key.
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From: Hampshire
Also, don't forget the transmission losses! Typical transmission losses for a front engined, rwd vehicle with an LSD and independant suspension are around 17% (dragged out of my uni notes, so a rough estimate).
Working on this basis, a new S2000 with the manufacturer's reputed 238hp at the flywheel should give approx 198 hp at the wheels (or there abouts).
Hence the comment above that 190 is about right. Add to this the fact that the car is picky about intake temp and that most dyno outfits have difficulty in getting enough fresh, cold air into the car and there you have another 10% loss (171ish hp). Add an inaccuracy of +/-10% on top gets you 154ish. A zero error of around 5hp and you're now in the ballpark of your result...
It's easy to get hung up on dyno figures, but you need to look at the availability of power and/or torque under real world driving conditions and then modify your driving style to suit. Once you've got that optimised, then start looking at which characteristics you need to change.
Working on this basis, a new S2000 with the manufacturer's reputed 238hp at the flywheel should give approx 198 hp at the wheels (or there abouts).
Hence the comment above that 190 is about right. Add to this the fact that the car is picky about intake temp and that most dyno outfits have difficulty in getting enough fresh, cold air into the car and there you have another 10% loss (171ish hp). Add an inaccuracy of +/-10% on top gets you 154ish. A zero error of around 5hp and you're now in the ballpark of your result...
It's easy to get hung up on dyno figures, but you need to look at the availability of power and/or torque under real world driving conditions and then modify your driving style to suit. Once you've got that optimised, then start looking at which characteristics you need to change.
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: location, location
Originally Posted by eSeM,Dec 1 2008, 09:25 AM
The backboxes way a ton but your bound to upset the 50:50 weight distribution.
I think after next week i should of shed about 30KG.
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: location, location
Originally Posted by ian_6301,Dec 1 2008, 12:47 PM
Also, don't forget the transmission losses! Typical transmission losses for a front engined, rwd vehicle with an LSD and independant suspension are around 17% (dragged out of my uni notes, so a rough estimate).
Working on this basis, a new S2000 with the manufacturer's reputed 238hp at the flywheel should give approx 198 hp at the wheels (or there abouts).
Hence the comment above that 190 is about right. Add to this the fact that the car is picky about intake temp and that most dyno outfits have difficulty in getting enough fresh, cold air into the car and there you have another 10% loss (171ish hp). Add an inaccuracy of +/-10% on top gets you 154ish. A zero error of around 5hp and you're now in the ballpark of your result...
It's easy to get hung up on dyno figures, but you need to look at the availability of power and/or torque under real world driving conditions and then modify your driving style to suit. Once you've got that optimised, then start looking at which characteristics you need to change.
Working on this basis, a new S2000 with the manufacturer's reputed 238hp at the flywheel should give approx 198 hp at the wheels (or there abouts).
Hence the comment above that 190 is about right. Add to this the fact that the car is picky about intake temp and that most dyno outfits have difficulty in getting enough fresh, cold air into the car and there you have another 10% loss (171ish hp). Add an inaccuracy of +/-10% on top gets you 154ish. A zero error of around 5hp and you're now in the ballpark of your result...
It's easy to get hung up on dyno figures, but you need to look at the availability of power and/or torque under real world driving conditions and then modify your driving style to suit. Once you've got that optimised, then start looking at which characteristics you need to change.
IIRC though, Honda quote 190 at the wheel.
As far as i know 236 is the factory figure, i can see this with allsorts of fans blowing at it and the perfect day
