My Bargain Basement Track Toy
#51
Registered User
Thread Starter
However, if it was then yes it will damage the diff. It should only ever have a Tapley Test conducted to check the rear brake efficiency on an MOT test.
#52
Had to google that one.
decelerometer
decelerometer
#54
Does anyone actually use a Tapley Meter any more?
I roll mine around the garage by hand and the diff has never exploded.
Actually, that's untrue. But I have no evidence of being charged for hypoid oil at the 27,000 service. I changed the diff, but the whistle returned shortly afterwards. Bad luck?
Or rolling the car round the garage by hand?
I roll mine around the garage by hand and the diff has never exploded.
Actually, that's untrue. But I have no evidence of being charged for hypoid oil at the 27,000 service. I changed the diff, but the whistle returned shortly afterwards. Bad luck?
Or rolling the car round the garage by hand?
#56
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yeah, me too Dan. Another cost avoided
While its in the air I'm going to change the oil in the replacement diff and do the gearbox oil at the same time. If I can find somewhere to weld the baffle into my sump this week I'll see if I can fit that as well (time permitting) and change the engine oil too.
While its in the air I'm going to change the oil in the replacement diff and do the gearbox oil at the same time. If I can find somewhere to weld the baffle into my sump this week I'll see if I can fit that as well (time permitting) and change the engine oil too.
#57
Registered User
Thread Starter
Right, the car has been in the workshop yesterday and the diff has been replaced along with a baffled sump fitted. I had the sump welded locally at a specialist called Precision Welding, who were specific with using silicone based welding rod rather than magnesium so that it has flex with the heat cycling and no risk of cracking.
by Alex Collins, on Flickr
Untitled by Alex Collins, on Flickr
Yesterday went relatively smoothly, diff was fitted without any problems and so was the sump. However, I'm now getting really frustrated as the noise from the back end I've been getting is still there
I'm really in need of some help with diagnosing this now as the wheel bearings have been done and the diff has been replaced with a unit I know is in good condition. I'm now left with the thoughts that it could be the rear disks and pads as they need changing anyway (they're making a nice scraping noise when I apply the brakes at low speed) OR it could be something to do with calipers or carriers OR it could possibly be the CV joints on the driveshafts OR it could be an ARB bush thats working loose or broken?
The noise only occurs at low speed and the car drives in a perfectly straight line with no lack of power or drive etc. Other than the noise the car drives like a normal S should.
Here's a vid I recorded last night doing less than 10mph. Any suggestions are really welcomed!
Untitled by Alex Collins, on Flickr
by Alex Collins, on Flickr
Untitled by Alex Collins, on Flickr
Yesterday went relatively smoothly, diff was fitted without any problems and so was the sump. However, I'm now getting really frustrated as the noise from the back end I've been getting is still there
I'm really in need of some help with diagnosing this now as the wheel bearings have been done and the diff has been replaced with a unit I know is in good condition. I'm now left with the thoughts that it could be the rear disks and pads as they need changing anyway (they're making a nice scraping noise when I apply the brakes at low speed) OR it could be something to do with calipers or carriers OR it could possibly be the CV joints on the driveshafts OR it could be an ARB bush thats working loose or broken?
The noise only occurs at low speed and the car drives in a perfectly straight line with no lack of power or drive etc. Other than the noise the car drives like a normal S should.
Here's a vid I recorded last night doing less than 10mph. Any suggestions are really welcomed!
Untitled by Alex Collins, on Flickr