New owner - help needed!
#1
New owner - help needed!
Hello,
I've just bought my first honda s2000 a week ago and have started to have a few issues.
It's a 2002 Japanese import AP1
On a warm day I went for a drive and after a while I noticed while in vtec there was a bit of a farty stutter, mainly noticeable in 2nd and 3rd.
Normal driving was fine, no lumpy idle or any issues with part throttle etc.
I did a bit of searching and found some threads about the MAP sensor and it was sounding like this was my problem, so i went and gave it a tap, plus another for good luck and had a test drive, it seemed fine for about 3 miles then started again (whether it was just the engine bay warming up I'm not sure)
So i returned home and removed it, gave it a blow and a squirt with carb cleaner and another tap.
Then I went for a test drive, still the same, however after a while it started bogging down while I was at lower revs, around 2500rpm seems the worst. Setting off is also horrendous, the engine is cutting out and you just end up bouncing down the road (nothing to do with the way I'm driving, its like the fuel is being cut), it's also still doing it when cruising along at normal speeds too.
Today I cleaned up the throttle body and checked the plugs, I found one to have the end of the 'hook' snapped off at the bend, so fitted a new set of NGK laser platinums, went for a test drive and the stutter in vtec seems to be cured! (I'm hoping the little bit of plug has passed through the engine without causing issues?!
However the lower rpm bogging is still very much an issue.
Any one have any ideas on this?
Could I have damaged the MAP sensor by blowing into it?!
I've ordered one to pick up tomorrow as it seems odd that it started after I tinkered with the MAP.
Anything else I should be checking?
I've just bought my first honda s2000 a week ago and have started to have a few issues.
It's a 2002 Japanese import AP1
On a warm day I went for a drive and after a while I noticed while in vtec there was a bit of a farty stutter, mainly noticeable in 2nd and 3rd.
Normal driving was fine, no lumpy idle or any issues with part throttle etc.
I did a bit of searching and found some threads about the MAP sensor and it was sounding like this was my problem, so i went and gave it a tap, plus another for good luck and had a test drive, it seemed fine for about 3 miles then started again (whether it was just the engine bay warming up I'm not sure)
So i returned home and removed it, gave it a blow and a squirt with carb cleaner and another tap.
Then I went for a test drive, still the same, however after a while it started bogging down while I was at lower revs, around 2500rpm seems the worst. Setting off is also horrendous, the engine is cutting out and you just end up bouncing down the road (nothing to do with the way I'm driving, its like the fuel is being cut), it's also still doing it when cruising along at normal speeds too.
Today I cleaned up the throttle body and checked the plugs, I found one to have the end of the 'hook' snapped off at the bend, so fitted a new set of NGK laser platinums, went for a test drive and the stutter in vtec seems to be cured! (I'm hoping the little bit of plug has passed through the engine without causing issues?!
However the lower rpm bogging is still very much an issue.
Any one have any ideas on this?
Could I have damaged the MAP sensor by blowing into it?!
I've ordered one to pick up tomorrow as it seems odd that it started after I tinkered with the MAP.
Anything else I should be checking?
#2
I would be worried about that bit of plug
Not sure on map issue, never had it. They can bog down when hot with standard airbox as it grabs hot air from near the rad
Not sure on map issue, never had it. They can bog down when hot with standard airbox as it grabs hot air from near the rad
#3
When I had the MAP issue, it tended to be at higher revs when booting it and was like the engine was stuttering. I never replaced it, but the connector is now tightly held in place with some zip ties - the issue was it was a loose connection:
The bogging down issue is something I get, but it tends to be when it's hot, in stop start traffic, and when setting off. As per the technical FAQ, a quick rev before setting off avoids the issue,
The bogging down issue is something I get, but it tends to be when it's hot, in stop start traffic, and when setting off. As per the technical FAQ, a quick rev before setting off avoids the issue,
#4
As above,as the piece of plug may be stuck in the valve train area.
Check valve clearance to see if any tight ones<on the failed plug cylinder>
Compression test to eliminate low compression.
Coil ok ?
No fault code ?
EMS oem ?
What plugs did you take out , Bosch ?
Check valve clearance to see if any tight ones<on the failed plug cylinder>
Compression test to eliminate low compression.
Coil ok ?
No fault code ?
EMS oem ?
What plugs did you take out , Bosch ?
#6
^^
Made a mess in my combustion chamber when had a broken tip,also may have gone down cylinder wall on mine.
A replacement engine was needed.
Worth checking though.
Made a mess in my combustion chamber when had a broken tip,also may have gone down cylinder wall on mine.
A replacement engine was needed.
Worth checking though.
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#8
You could get a boroscope down there to have a look I guess?
Good garages have em but USB ones are cheap now too.
Good luck
Good garages have em but USB ones are cheap now too.
Good luck
#9
It's odd that the car runs fine when booting it though. You'd think if the bore was scored or something in the valve then it would run bad all the time.
setting off a high rpm is fine too
Its only when setting off normally and when cruising along at normal kind of speeds. It's pretty violent and what most would call undriveable
someone has also said it may be the o2 sensor?
I don't want to start replacing any more bits willy nilly but stuggling to decide what to do next. I wish there was a fault code!
setting off a high rpm is fine too
Its only when setting off normally and when cruising along at normal kind of speeds. It's pretty violent and what most would call undriveable
someone has also said it may be the o2 sensor?
I don't want to start replacing any more bits willy nilly but stuggling to decide what to do next. I wish there was a fault code!